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WONDERS 

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R. Van Dine 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSre 



GREAT FALLS FROM BELOW~YELLOWSTONE PARK. 

—Page 121. 



THE WONDERS OF 
THE GOLDEN WEST. 



BEING A GRAPHIC ELUCIDATION OF A THOUSAND 
MARVELOUS SPECTACLES WITNESSED IN CROSSING 
THE CONTINENT IN A PALACE CAR — DEPICTING 
THE CONTIGUITY OF TWO OCEANS AND THE 
SCENIC SPLENDORS OF THE WESTERN SECTION 
OF OUR GLORIOUS REPUBLIC — THE " LURE " OF 
THE GREAT WEST IS A LIVING FACT, AND 
THE AUTHOR TELLS WHY VISITORS AND TOUR- 
ISTS RETURN TO THE REGIONS OF SNOW-CLAD 
MOUNTAINS, INTERMINGLED WITH BRIGHT 
SUNSHINE AND EVER-BLOOMING FLOWERS. 



BY 



JOHN R. VAN DINE. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



New York : 

J. S. OGILVIE PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

57 Rose Street. 



I ~" 



V^A 



copyright, 1909; by 
John R. Van Dine. 



g^CI.A25G3 68 



CONTENTS 

OHAPTEB PAGE 

I Notes of Travei. — Westward, 

Ho! 33 

II The Splendors of the Canadian 

Rockies 45 

III Seattle — The A.-Y.-P. Exposi- • 
TION 59 

IV The Pacific Coast — The Golden 

Gate 73 

V Southern California — The 

Great American Desert 89 

VI Salt Lake City — The Mormon 

Metropolis . 103 

VII The Wonders of Yellowstone 

National Park 109 

VIII Scenic Colorado — Pike's Peak — 

Garden of the Gods 133 

IX Homeward Bound — ^Passing Com- 
ments 153 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS, 



PAGE 



Gbeat Falls from Below — Yellow- 
stone Park Frontispiece 

Our Special Train 39 

Lake Louise and Victoria Glacier, 
Laggan, Alberta, Can 47 

A Glimpse of the Canadian Rockies 51 

The ** California " Party at the Big 

Trees, Santa Cruz, Cal 82 

Hotel Del Monte, Del Monte, Cal. 83 

Southern California 89 

The Terrace at Mammoth Hot 

Springs 125 

A Rocky Mountain Lake 135 

Summit of Pike's Peak 144 

The Author 159 



1^ 



INTRODUCTION 

The following sketches of travel are 
appended as a simple, unadorned account 
of a very interesting tour to the Pacific 
Coast, which I earnestly trust will prove 
of interest to my fellow tourists, being a 
memento of a memorable event, and, 
moreover, that the observations recorded 
will interest and possibly inspire those who 
have not as yet gazed upon the wonders 
and scenic grandeur of the Western sec- 
tion of our glorious country, including a 
section of our neighbor on the north — 
Canada — to take the trip and thereby view 
the "Greatest and Grandest Show on 
Earth" through their own optics. 

Seated in a Pullman palace car, the 
reader (in imagination) is taken from 
New York through the Central West, 
touching or crossing twenty-one States, 
two Provinces in Canada and a portion of 
British Columbia, penetrating the heart 
of the Canadian Rockies — stopping at 
Banff, the Switzerland of North America, 
viewing beautiful Lake Louise — the Lake 
of the Clouds, and the Great Glacier of the 
Selkirks, hemmed in by snow-capped 

29 



So Introduction 

mountain peaks, colossal in magnitude and 
beautiful beyond description. Re-entering 
Uncle Sam's domain, we stop at Seattle, 
the rising metropolis of the great North- 
west, viewing the marvelous exhibits of 
the Alaska- Yukon-Pacific Exposition. 

We also take the reader through Port- 
land, the Rose City ; the Williamette Val- 
ley (a veritable Garden of Eden) ; we 
cross the famous San Francisco Bay and 
enter the new San Francisco and view the 
beautiful Golden Gate, the Big Trees of 
Calif ol-nia, Del Monte and Old Monterey, 
where we enjoy the famous seventeen-mile 
ride. We view gigantic Mount Shasta, 
beautiful orange groves and fruit orch- 
ards, passing through the Great American 
Desert, stopping at Salt Lake City, 
spending five days amid the wonders of 
Yellowstone National Park. We view 
the Rockies of Colorado, the Grand Can- 
yon of the Arkansas, ascend Pike's Peak, 
traverse the Garden of the Gods, the Crip- 
ple Creek gold and silver mines, stopping 
at Kansas City and St. Louis, etc.^ — a trip 
covering nearly 11,000 miles. Impressions 
recorded on the spot. 

The Authoe. 

Lawbence, L. I. 



NOTES OF TRAVEL — WEST- 
WARD, HOI 



The WONDERS of the 
GOLDEN WEST 



CHAPTER I 

Notes of Travel — Westward^ Ho! 

New York, June 30, 1909. — We are 
about to take a trip to the Far West — 
aspirations of many years now happily to 
be realized. "All aboard!" 

The train moves slowly at first out of 
the Grand Central Station, but soon we 
are skirting the banks of the noble Hud- 
son, so refreshing after leaving the hot, 
dusty city. A brief stop is made at Al- 
bany, passing Utica, Syracuse, Rochester, 
Buffalo. Then, after refreshing the inner 
man in the dining-car, we in due time re- 
tire to our various sections in the Pullman 
sleeper. No husband can delude wifey 
about being detained downtown and she 
knows his whereabouts — both day and 
night. 

Thursday, July 1, finds us in Detroit, 
Mich. 

We simply get a bird's-eye view of the 
metropolis as we are transported across 

33 



S4 Wonders of The Golden West 

the Detroit River and are soon speeding 
over vast fields of corn, wheat, oats and 
well-cultivated farms of Michigan. At 
this point we seemingly gain one hour on 
Father Time, as we regulate our time- 
pieces backward one hour, corresponding 
to Central time. At Battle Creek, evi- 
dently a flourishing town, we note numer- 
ous cereal manufactories in full blast. The 
sand dunes at Michigan City were par- 
ticularly interesting. 

CHICAGO 

The blue waters of Lake Michigan at- 
test that we are nearing the great metropo- 
lis of the Central West, Chicago. Here 
all is bustle. The rush of traffic causes a 
Niagara of sounds. The city teems with 
life. Four sightseeing automobiles are 
soon whirhng the ninety-three members of 
our party through the busy business sec- 
tion, which contains skyscrapers on a par 
with little old New York, thence along the 
splendid boulevard skirting Lake Michi- 
gan to the grand public parks for which 
Chicago is justly noted. After the ordeal 
of a continuous ride from New York, with 
the thermometer cutting up high jinks, the 
refreshing breezes from Lake Michigan 
were truly delightful and fully appreci- 
ated. We voted Chicago a "wonder," 
destined to become even greater with the 
coming decades. 



Notes of Travel 85 

Friday, July 2. — Shortly after sunrise 
we cross the Father of Waters, the Mis- 
sissippi River, always an inspiring sight 
to Easterners, and a little later dash into 
St. Paul, the Twin City. Our itinerary 
precluded sightseeing here, so we shook 
hands with St. Paul, so to speak, and pro- 
ceeded westward. 

We now traverse the vast farming sec- 
tion of Minnesota, luxuriant in vegetation. 
As we proceed over the prairie lands we 
note that the buildings are mostly sur- 
rounded with trees, very similar in appear- 
ance to our willows, which act as protec- 
tive agencies when the tornadoes sweep 
over this section. Occasionally we observe 
a "dug out," an excavation not unlike a 
cellar, having a roof of sods, with steps 
leading to the "lower regions." 

NORTH DAKOTA 

We cross the State line and swing into 
North Dakota. As the eye sweeps the 
horizon, the land appears to be as level as 
a board, so to speak, and, like Minnesota, 
is very luxuriant in vegetation. 

Space seems practically unlimited out 
here, far from the maddening crowd. 
Here the farmer is monarch of all he sur- 
veys. Droves of sleek-looking cattle are 
browsing in vast tracts of clover or alfalfa. 
The horn of plenty is in evidence. Who 



36 Wonders of The Golden West 

enjoys life in its truest sense more than 
does the pros]3erous farmer? 

At various stops along the way we 
alight to pluck wild flowers and grasses, 
while the amateur photographers get in 
their "dark" work. Every soul aboard the 
train is enjoying the trip, anticipating 
greater things to come. We become better 
acquainted with our traveling companions 
and confidences are freely exchanged. 
The occupants of the various "sections" 
inaugurated "social calls" and every one 
was happy. The train stopped at Harvey, 
N. D., a typical Western town, profusely 
decorated with flags and bunting. A jolly 
automobile party serenaded us with the 
latest melodies of the day and the populace 
waved handkerchiefs as our train pulled 
out of the station. At various railroad 
crossings where the tracks are low snow 
drifts in winter are apt to stop trains re- 
gardless of schedules; here we observe 
curiously built contrivances called snow 
fences. A few of the city people mistook 
them for grape arbors. 

PROVINCE OF SASKATCHEWAN 

Saturday, July 3. — At sunrise we 
awoke to find ourselves beyond Uncle 
Sam's domain at a little station called Pas- 
qua, in the Province of Saskatchewan, 
Canada. We had passed through Portal, 



Notes of Travel 37 

which is on the boundary line, while we 
were in the Land of Nod and our merchan- 
dise had been duly inspected by the Cana- 
dian customs officials. 

Moose Jaw, romantic appellation, was 
our next stop, where we alighted to view 
the landscape o'er. 

We again reset our watches backward 
one hour to conform with Mountain time, 
a difference of two hours from that of 
Eastern time. See what one gains in time 
by going westward ! 

For the simple life we commend the 
prairie lands of Saskatchewan. As far as 
the eye can sweep there is scarcely any sign 
of habitation. Occasionally we passed a 
little settlement of one-story houses, which 
reminded one of the days of the pioneers. 

However, the scene changes as we touch 
at Swift Current, which is in the centre of 
a very«flourishing agricultural district, the 
soil being particularly adapted for grain 
farming and is said to be rapidly filling up 
with American settlers. 

One doesn't need to be a very close ob- 
server to learn that our Uncle Sam is not 
the sole owner of all the fertile soil, for 
indeed Canada must be reckoned with on 
that score. 

PROVINCE OF ALBERTA 

The train halts for a few moments at 
Medicine Hat, a prosperous-looking town, 



38 Wonders of The Golden West 

apparently the centre of ranching and 
farming district in the Province of Al- 
berta. The tourists made a dash for the 
neighboring stores, spending money reck- 
lessly for post cards, chewing gum and 
"sich" things. An Indian squaw came to- 
ward the train, and as several cameras 
were in line for a snapshot at her, she cun- 
ningly evaded capture by entering a con- 
venient car. Mrs. Indian evidently did 
not like the antics of the people from the 
cultured East; anyway she positively re- 
fused to have her photo taken. 

Our train was switched at a very remote 
spot, in order that a train could pass, and 
we improved the opportunity to investi- 
gate and explore the burrows inhabited by 
the cunning little prairie dogs. Mean- 
while the conductor of our party, accom- 
panied by a young lady hailing from the 
classic State of New Jersey, called upon a 
resident, a Scotch woman, who gave the 
visiting couple a warm welcome, stating 
during the social call that the aforesaid 
young lady from New Jersey was the 
first white woman she had "laid eyes on in 
thirteen months" and that her nearest 
neighbor resided eight miles distant. How 
is that for Lonelyville? The vast tracts 
of farming and prairie lands seemed al- 
most endless, so that we somewhat de- 
spaired reaching the goal of our ambitions 
i— to gaze upon the snowy mountains. It 




OUR SFECIAL TRAIN.— Page 39. 



Notes of Travel 39 

was perhaps the only monotonous part of 
our trip. 

PULLMAN CAR LIFE 

Permit me right here to digress some- 
what by giving a glimpse of existence on 
a Pullman, inasmuch as we are to enjoy 
four more days ere reaching Seattle. 
From that city we shall, at various points, 
enjoy the comforts of the leading hotels 
of the Pacific Coast. 

From Chicago to Seattle we have the 
luxury of our own dining-car, but after 
reaching that point our diner will be de- 
tached. However, we shall then have to 
take chances. 

As to the daily routine en route being 
monotonous, that depends of course on 
circumstances, temperament, etc. The 
members of our party were a jolly set. 
Dull care, business anxieties, in fact all 
problems were left far, far behind. Most 
of us forgot there was such a place in ex- 
istence as New York. Every one was out 
for a good time and bound to have it! 
The usual routine at the beginning of the 
day is, of course, first breakfast, followed 
by reading, writing, chatting and gazing 
at the passing scenery. Midday luncheon 
is followed by conversation, social calls, 
games, reading and napping. Dinner is 
served from ^:30 to 7:30, after which 



'40 Wonders of The Golden West 

anything is in order. Recitations are ren- 
dered, singing was permitted or prohib- 
ited, depending mostly on the merits of 
the singer; for instance, some would sing 
who couldn't J while others could sing but 
wouldn't. We sang hymns and national 
anthems, but drew the line on *'Home, 
Sweet Home" — not because that was not 
dear to us, but rather to ward off any ten- 
dency to home-sickness. Sometimes there 
was fought a battle of pillows, in which 
the conflict was red hot without dire re- 
sults. Even some of the ministers proved 
good fighters and got "whipped," too, like 
the rest of us! 

Miss Margaret Winslow, a talented 
young lady, was indeed the human phono- 
graph, her impersonations in that line al- 
ways evoking generous applause, while 
Miss Kathryn Taylor rendered recitations 
which were highly appreciated by her fel- 
low tourists. 

At 10 o'clock P.M. nearly all the tour- 
ists were in the somnolent Land of Nod; 
at 11 o'clock the various kinds of snores, 
from falsetto to deep bass, were in full 
progress, broken only by the puffing of 
the engine ahead. 

At the little railway station, Brooks, 
we were informed by the agent in charge 
that we were now in the newly opened 
irrigation district of Alberta and that the 
Canadian Pacific Railway anticipated a 



] Notes of Trcwel 41 

great future from these vast tracts of land 
by the process of irrigation. 

At Calgary the train halts for a little 
while, giving us an opportunity to get a 
glimpse of this picturesque ranching city, 
sometimes termed *'The Sirloin of Can- 
ada." We note that Alberta occupies a 
somewhat similar position to Canada as 
does Kentucky to the United States ki 
regard to the breeding of horses, while the 
natural conditions in certain parts of Sas- 
katchewan are more suitable for mixed 
farming and dairying. 

The climate in this section is said to be 
very beneficial to those affected by pul- 
monary troubles. If the condition of the 
appetites of those on board the train be 
an indication of the healthfulness of the 
region through which we are passing, we 
will cheerfully cite it O. K. 

The Province of Alberta embraces 253,- 
540 square miles. It is double the size of 
Great Britain and Ireland and larger 
than either Germany or France. This 
vast area has a population of less than 
two hundred thousand. 

While we are willing to admit the ad- 
vantages of "Sunny Alberta," we are not 
willing to give up our citizenship and 
swear allegiance to His Majesty the 
King. We are Yankees to the bone and 
proud of it. 



THE SPLENDORS OF THE 
CANADIAN ROCKIES 



CHAPTER II 

The Splendors of the Canadian 
Rockies 

Sunday, July 4. — What a spectacle 
greets our vision as we behold snow- 
capped mountains — the long-looked-for 
Canadian Rockies! We were completely- 
surrounded and hemmed in by them. 
Truly a veritable Switzerland! How 
grand and majestic they appeared as they 
towered to dazzling heights above us, 
garbed in supernatural whiteness of 
matchless grandeur! 

Stages convey us to the Banff Springs 
Hotel, an ideal location, where the brac- 
ing mountain air enables one to do ample 
justice to an appetizing repast. The 
cheerful log fire was appreciated, too, on 
this summer morning. 

A religious service under the leadership 
of the Rev. Dr. Harper was held in an 
upper room of the hotel. Delegates to 
the coming Epworth League Convention 
at Seattle were present and much en- 
thusiasm prevailed. We were on for- 
eign soil, nevertheless "My Country 'Tis 

45 



46 Wonders of The Golden West 

of Thee" was sung with an intensity of 
feeling seldom witnessed in the States. 

BANFF^ THE BEAUTIFUL 

This certainly is no misnomer, for 
Banff is indeed beautifully situated 'mid 
immense mountain crags and peaks on the 
Bow River, in the valley bearing the same 
name, on the eastern slope of the Cana- 
dian Rockies. Banff is the property of 
the Canadian Government. This is a 
popular mountain resort for tourists from 
all parts of the globe. Several tourists at 
the hotel who had trotted around this mun- 
dane sphere enthusiastically affirmed that 
the mountain scenery here vies with that 
of the famous Alps in Switzerland. 

Here the snow-clad mountains stretch 
away as far as the vision can reach in 
every direction, one snowy peak rising 
above another in varied and sublime con- 
fusion. To the north rises Stony Squaw 
Mountain. Towering above this is Cas- 
cade Mountain, its sides ribbed and 
scarred by avalanche and tempest; then 
Mount Bundle looms before us at a height 
of 10,000 feet, its sides furrowed and 
trenched by snow slides. 

It was at this famous resort that we 
unexpectedly yet happily met an old-time 
friend. Miss Nellie Smith, who was re- 
turning East from Pasadena, Cal. We 




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The Canadian Rockies 47 

enjoyed a lively stage ride up Tunnel 
Mountain and at its loftiest height the 
view of beautiful Bow Valley, the pic- 
turesque Bow River Falls below and the 
snow-capped mountains all about us on 
every side, making our environment in- 
deed superb. Many tourists climb this 
mountain as an appetizing walk before 
breakfast, and because of the magnificent 
view here attained it is frequented at all 
times of the day. Upon descending the 
mountain we rode to the Government 
Reservation and saw a herd of buffalo. 
Being in captivity they are very docile. 
Several members of our party climbed 
above an eagle's nest and brought down 
some real snow from the mountain. We 
were somewhat reluctant to leave this en- 
chanted region. 

BEAUTIFUL LAKE LOUISE 

Monday, July 5. — Our next point of 
interest is Laggan, where we leave the 
train. Stages and saddle ponies convey 
us up steep and rocky mountain roads to 
beautiful Lake Louise, the lake in the 
clouds, which lies at an elevation of 5,645 
feet, shut in on every side by rocky snow- 
capped heights. Here amid the most lav- 
ish scenery and magnificent environment 
Nature can bestow is the lake, the loveli- 
ness and charm of which is beyond de- 



48 Wonders of The Golden West 

scription. It is about a mile and a half 
long and half a mile broad. 

In close proximity is discerned the pure 
white snow field on Mount Victoria at a 
height of 10,000 or 12,000 feet. This 
moimt, joining with other lofty peaks, 
forms a beautiful expanse of snow and 
ice, and it was here that several members 
of our party witnessed the novelty of a 
real snow slide while viewing the splen- 
dors of the lake. 

The ladies simply went into ecstasies 
at this delightful spot, while others lin- 
gered and nearly missed the train. There 
was a shortage of stages and several were 
obliged to "foot it" down the mountain, a 
distance of nearly three miles. We were 
covered with dust, but enjoyed the "walk." 

Our train again gets under headway. 
As we proceed westward several of us who 
had industriously attempted hitherto to 
view the passing scenic splendors, jotting 
down our impressions "on the spot," were 
obliged to suspend operations indefinitely, 
simply because the increasing grandeur of 
the Canadian Rockies made note-taking 
impossible. Hence if what is to follow be 
not in "regular order," the defect cannot 
be remedied. 

We made a short stop at Field, a favo- 
rite resort for tourists. This is the gate- 
5vay of the wonderful Yoho Valley. -This 



The Canadian Rockies 49 

valley is now included within the confines 
of the Canadian National Park. 

Here the spectator gazes on Mount 
Stephen, a mass of rock towering 10,450 
feet above sea level and 6,500 feet above 
the valley. The outlines of the peaks con- 
stituting the Great Cathedral, resplendent 
in beauty and overwhelming in grandeur, 
compel our deepest admiration. Cathe- 
dral Mountain, 10,204 feet high, is hap- 
pily named, as it bears a wonderful 
resemblance to a magnificent cathedral 
perched on the summit of the mountain. 

KICKING HORSE RIVER 

Who on this memorable trip will ever 
forget the Kicking Horse River, forming 
picturesque cascades, seemingly furious in 
its limited confines as it dashes through 
deep gorges in impotent rage, creating at 
times gorgeous waterfalls and roaring 
cataracts? The story of why the river 
was so called runs as follows: "An ex- 
ploration expedition was encamped on the 
banks of the Wapta, where a pack horse 
broke three of the leader's ribs by a kick. 
He lay unconscious for hours till his In- 
dians thought him dead and prepared to 
bury him, but as they bore him along he 
regained his senses. When he recovered 
he went to inspect his grave, that had been 
dug some little way from the camp, and 



50 Wonders of The Golden West 

then fired by curiosity, determined to dis- 
cover where led the valley in which it had 
been intended to leave him forever. He 
explored it further and found it a prac- 
ticable way of crossing the mountains. 
Thus was the Kicking Horse River 
brought to light and received the name of 
a vicious animal which all unintentionally 
Had led to so important a discovery." 



THE GEEAT DIVIDE 



A short distance from Laggan the sum- 
mit ot the Rockies is reached, at which in- 
i^llfl^ P°'"t ^e pass the Great Divide, 
5,269 feet above sea level. AU one ob- 
serves irom the train is a rustic arch span- 
ning a stream under which the waters di- 
vide^ two little brooks seemingly to the 
observer, but the little stream that devi- 
ates to the east, reinforced later by other 
waters eventually reaches Hudson Bay, 
while the httle rivulet turning to the west 
hnally empties into the Pacific. I re- 
marked to a fellow tourist, a clergyman, 
that there was material for a good sermon 
suggested by the finality of those appar- 
ently to us insignificant streams. He 
agreed with me, but no sermon was 
brought out from them during the trip. 
Ihis leads me to remark that most preach- 
ers are all right, but some will delve into 
musty books in order to be deep and pro- 





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A GLIMPSE OF THE CANADIAN RCCKIES. Page 51. 



The Canadian Rockies 51 

found, often inducing drowsiness on the 
part of their hearers. What ringing ser- 
mons a preacher should dehver, especially 
after viewing these majestic, awe-inspir- 
ing Canadian Rockies! Ah, the divine 
message of these colossal peaks ! 

We pass great snow sheds, built di- 
rectly over the railroad tracks at certain 
points where the snows in winter from 
these colossal mountains ofttimes develop 
into vast snow slides. Patches of snow 
were in evidence along the roadbed on this 
day, July 5. 

The "Greatest Show on Earth" was on 
in earnest and exhilaration was stamped 
on every countenance. The contrast of 
long stretches of prairie lands to these 
awe-inspiring mountain peaks, capped 
with glistening snow towering toward the 
sky, and the gorgeous scenic splendors all 
about us evoked exclamations of delight. 
The "oh's!'; and "ah's!" "Just look on 
this side — is not that superb — magnifi- 
cent?" necessitated an enlarged vision to 
take it all in. Meanwhile the train keeps 
puffing at great rate as it continues on 
the up-grade, seemingly at times to us 
almost to the cloud line as we look below 
into deep canyons yawning to take us, 
"bag and baggage," should the train 
jump the track. However, we pin our 
faith in the engineer, who in due time 
brings us into Glacier, British Columbia, 



52 Wonders of The Golden West 

a delightful stopping place for tourists in 
the heart of the Selkirks. The altitude 
here is 4,122 feet. 

THE GREAT GLACIER 

We are now anticipating a feast of de- 
light as the members of the party start 
forth to view at close range that colossal 
mountain of ice, the Great Glacier, neces- 
sitating a tramp of nearly three miles — a 
veritable "Rocky Road to Dublin." No 
stage can traverse it. As we proceed dan- 
gerous paths and mountain streams are 
crossed and various hindrances beset us. 
However, most of us had perused John 
Bunyan's "Pilgrim's Progress," and as 
several of the weary tourists fell by the 
w^ayside, we determined to reach the de- 
sired point if we were obliged to wade 
there. At last patience and persistence 
were rewarded as we stood before the 
gigantic spectacle — a wondrous mountain 
mass of ice. We entered the ice cave. 
The bluish hues from within are exceed- 
ingly fine. Probably thirty to forty per- 
sons can comfortably stand within the 
cave. The Doxology was sung with great 
enthusiasm and photos taken while here. 

The writer of these lines walked on the 
roof of this truly great wonder, and it 
seemed to be as solid as the "Rock of 
Ages," with this exception, while the 



The Canadian Rockies 53 

glacier is receding on an average of 35 
feet a year, caused by the rays of the sun, 
the "Rock of Ages" is not receding an 
iota! The environment here is sublime, as 
the outside world seems shut in by seem- 
ingly great mountains of ice, for in close 
proximity can be seen a group of glaciers 
embracing an area of over 150 square 
miles, while Mount Sir Donald, towering 
to dazzling heights, commands our ad- 
miration. 

"When in Rome do as the Romans do." 
So now again we regulate our timepieces, 
adjusting the hour hand back one hour, 
conforming to Pacific time, or three hours 
earlier than Eastern time. We shall re- 
verse the order when we proceed eastward. 

The C. P. R. R. has adopted the novel 
24-o'clock schedule of time, thus abolish- 
ing the A.M. and p.m. by the new system. 
It seemed quite amusing to read at vari- 
ous stations from the train bulletin, for 
instance, that train No. 79, due at Glacier 
at 13:45 o'clock, was 15 minutes late. 
Why should not that system prevail uni- 
versally? 

Tuesday, July 6. — At 4 o'clock a.m. 
our train moves out of Glacier, passing 
over the great engineering feat called 
"The Loop." About twenty-two miles 
from Glacier the lUecillewalt River runs 
through the Albert Canyon, a gorge so 
marvelous that most of the trains stop for 



54 Wonders of The Golden West 

a short while to permit passengers to view 
its wonders. Our train, which arrived 
here at an unseemly hour in the morning, 
stopped, but unfortunately the writer of 
these lines was not awakened in time — was 
"caught napping" — consequently missed 
the spectacle. To add to my discomfiture, 
my wife had slipped out from the lower 
berth and gazed upon the wondrous scene 
and returning informed me "it was just 
grand," while others with fiendish triumph 
tauntingly said, "Wouldn't have missed it 
for the world!" "Oh, it was superb!" "Be- 
yond description!" 

At Sigamous Junction we stop ten min- 
utes and view beautiful Shuswap Lake, a 
magnificent body of water extending for 
fifty miles amid picturesque environments. 
The climate in this part of the Northwest 
is exceedingly fine and bracing. They 
told us that people actually lived here to 
such an advanced age that unless such 
met with fatal accidents they were obliged 
to move south into the "States" when they 
wished to "cash in their checks" — that is, 
die. 

BESIDE DEEP GORGES 

Thompson River, now running parallel 
with us to the right, finally empties into 
the Fraser River, and then we enjoy the 
antics of that interesting river, as it at 



TJie Canadian Rockies '55 

times is narrowed by mountainous walls 
and goes dashing through deep gorges 
with frightful velocity. Meanwhile our 
train is winding in serpentine fashion 
through ledges of rock, at times right close 
to the mouth of a deep abyss, causing one 
to thrill with a peculiar sensation for the 
time being. A young lady said to me, 
"What if our train left the rails?" "It 
would mean simply a case of good-by all," 
I hastened to assure her. Shall we ever 
forget Fraser Canyon? I trow not! 

The achievement of constructing a rail- 
way through and across the Canadian 
Rockies was indeed colossal and beneficial 
to mankind, but there is one thing almost 
impossible of achievement — namely, see- 
ing the Canadian Rockies through an- 
other's "specs." Their beauty and gran- 
deur must be seen through one's own 
optics; mere descriptions or the camera 
will not, cannot do them justice. 



AGAIN IN UNCLE SAM^S DOMAIN 



At North Bend the entire party was 
photographed, and everybody was happy. 
We finally reached Sumas, the boundary 
line, and Uncle Sam's men inspected our 
baggage. It was amusing to think that 
when we passed over into Canada en route 
our baggage was looked into by the Cana- 
dian customs agents, the ceremony was 



56 Wonders of The Golden West 

repeated upon our entrance into British 
Columbia and finally Uncle Sam holds us 
up to learn if we brought anything duti- 
able from a "foreign land." To my way 
of thinking, all this tomfoolery should be 
abolished. Why should not all of North 
America be subject to and under the au- 
thority of the United States of America? 
Let the Stars and Stripes wave over this 
wonderful section of country. Shall we 
some day take it by divine right of con- 
quest — that is, if all other methods fail? 
One indissoluble Union forever! 

We glide into the great State of Wash- 
ington in the darkness — very much to our 
regret — a State already demonstrating it- 
self worthy of its exalted name. We an- 
ticipate scanning the blue waters of Puget 
Sound, the white-capped Olympics and 
the peaks of the Cascades, with its greatest 
spectacle. Mount Rainier. 



SEATTLE— 
THE A.-Y.-P. EXPOSITION 



CHAPTER III 

Seattle — The A.-Y.-P. Exposition 

Wednesday^ July 7. — Here we are at 
last, no longer sojourners or aliens on for- 
eign soil, but "at home" in the great bus- 
tling city of the Northwest, Seattle, where 
the Stars and Stripes are waving in great 
profusion. The city appears in gala at- 
tire. What means this grand array? 
Trains were bringing hosts of tourists into 
the metropolis. At the Union Station an 
incoming Canadian host of Ep worth 
Leaguers, full of enthusiasm, start an im- 
promptu praise service by singing the 
Doxology. 

After the process of getting settled at 
our several hotels and stopping places, we 
go en masse to the large Armory building, 
where the International Convention of the 
Epworth League is about to open. The 
exterior and interior of the vast audi- 
torium were gaily decorated with the na- 
tional emblems of the United States and 
Canada. The great convention opened in 
due form and the addresses and singing 
were enthusiastic. One of the speakers, 

69 



60 Wonders of The Golden West 

in alluding to the long trip across the con- 
tinent and the great sights we had wit- 
nessed, including the vastness of our coun- 
try and particularly the wonders of the 
great Northwestern section, said that we 
would return to our respective homes nec- 
essarily changed men and women, having 
enlarged conceptions of our glorious coun- 
try, of its resources and opportunities and 
our responsibilities and duties as citizens 
of the same. During one of the meetings 
"My Country, 'Tis of Thee," was enthusi- 
astically rendered, the Canadian delegates 
singing as heartily as did the rest. Then 
the great convention reciprocated by sing- 
ing "God Save the King," an innovation 
to most of us. 

Seattle is a charming city, nestling on 
the breast of Puget Sound, having a 
splendid harbor big enough for Uncle 
Sam's warships to steam back and forth 
without difficulty. Seattle, like Quebec, 
is a city built upon a hill or hills. Its 
streets are cleanly. It bespeaks prosper- 
ity, everywhere apparent. It is wide 
awake — a metropolis where things are 
being done. Its steep hills are being rap- 
idly cut down or graded. Buildings are 
going up and business is forging ahead. 
Keep your eyes on Seattle, for it is a win- 
ner. Its delightful climate and go-ahead- 
iveness of its people make a strong combi- 
' nation. 



Seattle — The Eocposition 61 

The city boasts a population of nearly 
300,000, with a gain of 25,000 yearly. 
The suburbs abound with charming resi- 
dences and cozy bungalows. We enjoyed 
a delightful sail on Lake Washington and 
a trip on Puget Sound around Bainbridge 
Island. It was there we were promised a 
luscious clambake. We waited — in vain. 
The shrill whistle of our steamer blew, the 
waters of the sound were blue, while we 
felt unmistakably "blue" because we 
missed the ''clambake!" 

THE A.-Y.-P. EXPOSITION 

The exposition was beautiful, instruc- 
tive, inspiring, entertaining and exhaust- 
ing, the latter because there was so much 
to see, and our time to view the landscape 
o'er at that interesting point was neces- 
sarily limited to two days, so we were 
obliged to "go it" some. The purposes of 
the exposition were to exploit the Alaska- 
Yukon Territory and the Pacific Coast 
States, also to foster commercial relations 
with all countries bordering on the Pacific 
Ocean. There is no doubt that all of these 
laudable objects will be attained and the 
A.-Y.-P. Exposition will hasten the con- 
summation. 

Here we see the personification of ma- 
terial progress and culture as represented 
in the vast sea of storehouses of exhibits — 



62 Wonders of The Golden West 

a veritable panorama — a feast for the 
gods, as it were. 

The transcendentally beautiful exposi- 
tion buildings, the gardens of sweet- 
scented flowers, the picturesque cascades, 
the exquisite walks complete a scenario of 
perfection, and when viewed at night, the 
vast grounds and buildings emblazoned 
and resplendent with myriads of electric 
lights, the spectacle is stupendously fine, 
beyond description. 

To one who, for the first time, views the 
products of this, the great Northwest, the 
exhibits prove not only a surprise, but a 
revelation. Perfectly amazing to me were 
the exhibits particularly from the States 
of Washington, Oregon and California. 
An entire day can be profitably spent in 
viewing the exhibits of those three States 
and then one could easily spend another 
day to make sure that one took "every- 
thing in" from these three interesting, in 
fact marvelous, commonwealths. Such 
corn, wheat, oats, alfalfa, apples, oranges, 
lemons, grapefruit, sugar beets, potatoes, 
prunes, apricots, nuts, minerals and nu- 
merous other products too numerous to 
mention! And those specimens of big 
trees were truly wonderful to behold — ^but 
seeing is believing! 



Seattle — The Eooposition 68 



WASHINGTON 

The industries of the State of Washing- 
ton are here exhibited, a few of which may- 
be mentioned, such as the bee culture, coal 
mining, dairying, wheat farming, stock 
raising, lumbering, fisheries, fruit grow- 
ing, poultry raising, truck gardening. In 
the Washington State Building some po- 
tatoes of Jumbo proportions were seen, 
the average yield, it was asserted, being 
400 to 600 bushels per acre. 

The loyalty of the Western folks to 
their respective States is really refreshing. 
A man who hails from California will 
swear by that State till the cows come 
home, and the man who lives in Washing- 
ton State will picture an earthly paradise 
to any man who will come there, roll up 
his sleeves and is not afraid of work. 

OREGON 

While viewing the exhibits in the Ore- 
gon Building I met a genuine Oregon 
tiller of the soil, who affirmed that Oregon 
was by far the greatest State in the Union 
— could raise anything that Washington 
did, and "a derned sight better'n bigger!" 
"Can Oregon lead California?" I inno- 
cently inquired, and he quickly responded : 
"Yes, sirree, we've got Calif orny beat way 



64 Wonders of The Golden West 

out'n her boots! Why, bless yer heart, 
Oregon's top soil is six to eight feet deep, 
an' we don't have to irrigate as they do in 
Californy." He further elucidated the in- 
formation that any farm less than 200 
acres in Oregon "was only a garden"; 
that a neighbor of his had a field of corn, 
the rows being "four miles long." I did 
not dispute that whatsoever. If he had 
put those rows of corn ten miles long it 
would have been just the same to me, be- 
cause after viewing the exhibits from Ore- 
gon one is prepared to believe that nothing 
was impossible in that great State. But I 
firmly believe that the finest apples, so 
far as beauty and size "go," are grown in 
Oregon. It is worthy of note that the 
annual rainfall in Oregon is ample for 
the production of fruits of all kinds with- 
out the aid of irrigation in that portion of 
the State lying west of the Cascade Moun- 
tains. They will tell you at "the Fair" 
that Oregon is rich in natural wealth and 
abounding in natural beauty, young and 
undeveloped, busy, invigorating, with a 
climate unsurpassed. 

CiLIFORNIA 

The California Building is in the old 
mission style of architecture. Here one 
views sub-tropical gardens, trees bearing 
fruit and the mineral and agricultural re- 



Seattle — The Exposition 65 

sources of this wonderful State are herein 
displayed to attract and interest the visi- 
tor. It makes a Long Islander marvel to 
behold the exhibits of California. The 
fruit exhibit is truly marvelous, while the 
vegetable and grain exhibits are stupen- 
dous. Washington, Oregon and Califor- 
nia are indeed three wonderful States. 

We also visited the Government Build- 
ing and its varied departments. The 
Alaska Building, with its exhibit of the 
resources of that Territory, was indeed 
very edifying. Its gold and vast mineral 
wealth, its furs and its agricultural prod- 
ucts proclaim it a land of promise and 
great resources. The Philippine Build- 
ing, with the exhibits of Uncle Sam's new 
accession, was interesting. The Forestry 
Building, with its imposing colonnade of 
giant fir logs hewn from the forest, houses 
a display of the Northwest's two greatest 
industries, lumbering and fisheries. The 
Agriculture Building, the Manufactures 
Building, Machinery Building, Fine Arts 
Building, Canada Building, the European 
Building and others were duly visited and 
their respective exhibits were hugely en- 
joyed and appreciated beyond expression, 
but I will refrain from further details lest 
I tire the reader. However, it was a beau- 
tiful, a stupendous exposition worth cross- 
ing the continent to behold, and the writer 
deeply regretted not having more time 



66 Wonders of The Golden West 

here to revel in the vast panorama of ex- 
hibits that were so profusely displayed for 
the edification of all concerned. Surely 
we shall bear away to our Eastern homes 
bright and lasting impressions of this 
splendid exposition of the Northwest. 

Sunday, July 11. — This is our last day 
in Seattle. It was Epworth League Rally 
Day at the Armory Building. At the 
afternoon meeting the vast auditorium 
was filled. Bishop Quayle gave a power- 
ful discourse on the dignity of labor, sway- 
ing the great audience in a wonderful 
manner by his impassioned eloquence. It 
was a memorable occasion. 

During our stay in town we had gazed 
upon the snow-capped Olympics, but un- 
fortunately the atmosphere was not suffi- 
ciently clear for us to distinguish the out- 
lines of Mount Rainier. Au re voir, Se- 
attle! 

Monday, July 12. — The train has been 
on the "go" all night and shortly after the 
dawn of day we crossed the Columbia and 
Williamette rivers. 

PORTLAND^ THE ROSE CITY 

Soon we found ourselves within the lim- 
its of Portland. Some cities prove a dis- 
appointment, but not so Portland. This 
was apparent when we boarded an obser- 
vation car and traversed the business, then 



Seattle — The Exposition 67 

later the residential sections. A very en- 
joyable ride is the ascent of Portland 
Heights, viewing with increasing admira- 
tion the elegant homes with their spacious 
lawns of green. It was apparent as we 
proceeded why this was called the "Rose 
City," as in evidence thereof gardens and 
hedges of the most exquisite roses we had 
ever beheld greeted our vision ; the air was 
permeated with their fragrance. Each 
yard seemed to rival its neighbor in 
beauty. It was rivalry among the roses. 
The view becomes decidedly picturesque 
as we continue to ascend, when lo! far be- 
low is spread the splendid panorama of 
the Williamette Valley, resplendent in its 
verdure and vegetation, such fine farms, 
quaint and lovely, bespeaking contentment 
and prosperity. Proceeding in the ascent 
we finally reach the summit of Council 
Crest, where we view the landscape o'er 
from heights sublime. The name should 
be Inspiration Point, for from this exalted 
point we beheld the beautiful city of Port- 
land at our feet, set in the valley on the 
Williamette River. From this elevation, 
when the atmosphere is perfectly clear, one 
can view the area of several States, gaze 
into twenty counties and discern five snow- 
capped mountain peaks, viz: Mount Rai- 
nier towering 14,519 feet; St. Helens, 
10,500 feet; Mount Adams, 12,000 feet; 
Mount Hood, 11,225 feet, and Mount Jef- 



68 Wonders of The Golden West 

ferson, 10,206 feet. If there be a spot on 
this mundane sphere to eclipse this, we 
know it not! It was the most enchanting 
scene I had ever beheld. 

We also visited the Oregon Forestry 
Building, the one permanent structure 
which commemorates the 1905 fair and 
which houses one of the finest forestry ex- 
hibits now extant. 

We were informed that roses bloom here 
out of doors in this beautiful city until 
Christmas. Portland is splendidly located. 
It boasts a population of more than 260,- 
000 and is rapidly growing. 

The lecturer on our observation car de- 
clared the scenery from Council Crest to 
be superior to that of any city in America. 
He also submitted figures to prove that 
Portland is by far the healthiest city in 
the United States, largely because of its 
pure drinking water, coming direct from 
the mountains. 

Portland, thy fame shall spread even 
to the East, from whence we came. Fair 
city, adieu! 

Tuesday, July 13. — Our train has been 
on the "go" all night and the morning sun- 
light finds us still in Oregon. Great foot- 
hills are all about us, while in the distance 
we catch a glimpse of the Cascade Moun- 
tains, and notwithstanding all this scenic 
splendor and vastness, why do masses 
crowd into the nerve-destroying cities? 



Seattle — The Exposition 69 

Ah ! life must be sweet amid these moun- 
tains. Why are they not peopled? Three 
cheers for the great Northwest ! The beau- 
tiful Roque River Valley, with its great 
stacks of golden wheat glistening under 
the bright July sun, and the well culti- 
vated fields form a pastoral scene worthy 
of a poet's pen or an artist's brush. One 
is almost inspired to become a Western 
farmer. At Ashland the train halts 
twenty minutes to "ice up." It is a typical 
Western town, being 1,890 feet above sea 
level, 431 miles north of San Francisco. 
We now pass over deep ravines as two en- 
gines pull us up steep inclines; thus w^e 
ride for hundreds of miles and our eyes 
never grow weary because the scene is ever 
changing, for the Supreme Artist of the 
Universe has painted these everlasting 
hills with a master hand, commanding the 
admiration and adoration of all His crea- 
tures. 

MOUNT SHASTA 

We are thrilled with joy as at last we 
catch a glimpse of snow-capped Mount 
Shasta, which stands like a colossal senti- 
nel between earth and heaven! This spec- 
tacle was to me the reflection of the Great 
Builder of the Universe, who holdeth even 
the mountains in His hands. Distance is 
deceiving, particularly when the atmos- 
phere is clear. The mount seemed near 



70 Wonders of The Golden West 

at hand, yet we knew a day's ride would 
elapse ere we should reach its base. We 
are now in Southern Oregon, speeding to- 
ward the great State of California. 

Oregon has exceeded our expectations. 
Will California do likewise? 



THE PACIFIC COAST — THE 
GOLDEN GATE 



CHAPTER IV 

The Pacific Coast — The Golden Gate 

A SIGN-POST marks the State boundary, 
and we now actually pass into the great 
State of California. What Easterner has 
not aspired to tread upon its soil? The 
State that grows big trees and luscious 
fruits, where the climate is incomparable, 
where the rising sunbeams kiss the moun- 
tain tops, where the ocean calls out all the 
year "Come in, boys; the water's fine!" 
As, therefore, we glide over California soil 
we note first Shasta Valley, beautiful to 
the beholder, evidently profitable to the 
husbandmen and dwellers therein. The 
Shasta range seems of formidable propor- 
tions, as Mount Eddy looms before us at 
a height of nearly 10,000 feet. Mount 
Shasta, which has been in sight nearly all 
day and toward which we have been travel- 
ing as fast as steam could take us, now as- 
sumes gigantic proportions. The train 
descends into Sacramento Canyon below, 
forming almost a perfect loop, a ride 
weird and picturesque as we cross and re- 
cross the Sacramento River, finally arriv- 
7^ ^ 



i74« Wonders of The Golden West 

ing at Shasta Springs, where we slake our 
thirst from the renowned waters direct 
from Mount Shasta, which looms above 
us 14,440 feet! 

We were surprised to find snow sheds in 
Northern California, but we were in- 
formed that only at a very high altitude 
snow impedes railway traffic, while in the 
valleys below snow is unknown. 

Wednesday, July 14. — The train dashes 
into Sacramento, where a stop of twenty 
minutes is made. We catch a glimpse of 
the dome of the capitol and in a short time 
arrive at Oakland, Cal. 

SAN FRANCISCO 

We immediately board a ferryboat for 
San Francisco. The view of beautiful 
San Francisco Bay from the upper deck 
was indeed superb. The newly arisen city 
loomed before us in all its peculiar gran- 
deur. How glad we feel to tread the 
streets of this magnificent metropolis of 
the Golden West ! The first thing in order 
was to secure a special observation car and 
view the various points of interest. The 
conductor acts as lecturer. We traverse 
Market Street in the business section and 
our "lecturer" proceeded to enlighten us 
as to the area that was literally destroyed 
in the great calamity of 1906. The Call 
Building, the Mint and also the General 



The Pacific Coast 75 

Post Office Building were designated as 
having withstood the fire and earthquake. 
Our lecturer alwaj^s alludes to the late 
calamity as "the fire," never as "the earth- 
quake." 

We note Panhandle Park, in which 
stands the McKinley statue. This statue 
was unveiled by President Roosevelt. 
Golden Gate Park, although entirely arti- 
ficial in its make-up, is decidedly pictur- 
esque. By the way, the parks do not ap- 
pear to advantage or at "their best" at 
this period of the year, as we are informed 
that this (July) is the "dry" season in 
California. 

As we near the heights of the city we 
catch our first view of the Pacific Ocean. 
How glad we are to gaze upon the rolling, 
white-crested billows as they break upon 
the sands! At last we have reached the 
Pacific Coast. 

THE GOLDEN GATE 

A short walk brings us to the new Cliff 
House, where we observe the sporting 
seals on the Seal Rocks, and then, lo! we 
behold the beautiful Golden Gate. How 
grand is the picture now unfolded to our 
enraptured vision! The scene was com- 
plete and well worth our time in crossing 
the continent. We actually felt that our 
youth was renewed at the splendid pano- 
rama spread before us. 



76 Wonders of The Golden West 

Returning to the busy section of the 
metropohs, one observes scarcely any evi- 
dences of the great catastrophe of 1906, 
as most of the debris has been supplanted 
by new structures and the city stands re- 
newed, like a giant refreshed with new 
wine. 

Our lecturer pointed to a dwelling 
where resides a man who is the happy par- 
ent of twenty-one children, and we rever- 
ently removed our (ladies excepted) hats 
in honor of the worthy father. 

After partaking lunch at San Francis- 
co's finest hotel — the Fairmount — we were 
taken "below" to the culinary department, 
where we inspected the entire parapher- 
nalia, including the Chinese and Japanese 
cooks, who smiled blandly and seemed 
"velly glad" to see us. 

A visit to the new Chinatown, including 
an informal call at an opium joint and the 
Joss House, concluded our observations of 
the city. We regret that the itinerary did 
not permit a longer sojourn at this inter- 
esting metropolis. 

Every true American has a peculiarly 
tender feeling for San Francisco and its 
courageous citizens — a people whom fire 
and earthquake cannot retard. Truly a 
city and people typical of the American 
spirit ! 

Au revoir, San Francisco, but not fare- 
weU! 



The Pacific Coast 77 

While the train is getting under head- 
way and as a diversion from "sightseeing" 
permit me to state that since reaching the 
Northwest there has been an adjustment 
or thinning out of our tourist companions. 
The original members of "Tour E" num- 
bered 93, the conductors being Revs. Ap- 
pleton Bash and John J. Foust, repre- 
senting the well-known Gillespie-Kin- 
ports Tourist Company. At Seattle and 
prior to reaching that point several mem- 
bers branched off to view the wonders of 
Alaska. The division under the direction 
of Rev. Bash returned eastward, via Yel- 
lowstone Park direct, consequently we 
now number 27 members, known as the 
"Cahfornia Company," Plan Four, the 
Rev. J. J. Foust being our personal con- 
ductor. 

PERSONAL MENTION 

The following comprise the genial mem- 
bers of our happy company and the occu- 
pants of the "Chesterton," our special car, 
which we term our moving flat. Would 
you like an introduction? 

The Rev. J. J. Foust is a genial guide 
and leader and we are particularly pleased 
to follow him on dangerous paths leading 
to dazzling mountain tops or to banquet 
halls, where the tables are laden with lus- 
cious viands. 

Rev. M. W. Womer is noted as the 



78 Wonders of The Golden West 

athletic parson. At a "pillow battle" or 
in assisting a lady to an upper berth he is 
supreme. 

Mr. George C. Johnson is a gallant, 
with a weakness for the gentler sex. 

Rev. S. T. Jackson is a happy combi- 
nation of philosopher and protector to 
lonely females on the trip. His injunction 
to "keep sweet" acted as a balm to the 
weary tourists. 

Mrs. B. Moore is jolly as a miss of six- 
teen summers. 

Miss Margaret Moore is a devoted sis- 
ter to her brother Alexander. 

Alexander Moore is a devoted brother 
to his sister Margaret. 

The Misses Mary and Martha Mc- 
Combs are amiable and jolly and they are 
alluded to as the Biblical "Mary and Mar- 
tha." There was lacking a brother Laza- 
rus, but a little bird whispered that on the 
sisters' next trip to the West a brother-in- 
law will appear on the scene. Aha ! 

Mr. and Mrs. James V. Austin — al- 
ways sedate and uncomplaining. 

Miss Minnie J. Harper — ever smiling 
and contented. 

Miss Kathryn Taylor is a splendid en- 
tertainer, always drawing a "full house." 
Moreover, she has an especial fondness for 
missionaries. 

Mr. and Mrs. B. Atkinson — always 
serene as the noonday sun. 



The Pacific Coast 79 

Miss Helen S. Atkinson, charming her- 
self, is ever on the lookout for the beautiful 
in Nature. She has a camera. 

Master Benjamin Atkinson is known 
as the boy traveler from New Jersey. 

Miss Minnie L. Hursh — unobtrusive, 
yet having a kind word for every one. 

Miss Margaret C. Houston — retiring 
and smiling in manner; a profound 
thinker. 

Mrs. Susan R. Leach— ever beaming 
with intense interest at Nature's wonders; 
a true and appreciative lover of Nature. 

Miss H. H. Stevenson — always full of 
Western humor; she hails from Ohio and 
is proud of it. 

Mrs. C. M. Knight — ever calm and op- 
timistic by day and by night. 

Mrs. L. L. Hunter, accompanied by her 
charming daughters, Leila May and 
Dorothy, also son Livingston, constitute 
the "model family." 

Mrs. John R. Van Dine — unostenta- 
tious in manner and, hke her illustrious 
(ahem!) husband, is ever on time to dine. 

Last but not least is our faithful porter, 
Joe, who contributed much to our comfort 
during the trip. Joe was nearly lost to us 
at Ogden, and rumor has it a black-eyed 
damsel was the cause of it all. 

There were several complaints made 
against snoring. Of course, each member 
pleaded "not guilty" to the indictment as 



80 Wonders of The Golden West 

charged (and one night the engineer 
stopped the train) . To put an end to this 
annoyance a secret committee was ap- 
pointed to take active measures if deemed 
necessary. The conmiittee did good 
work. The culprits were found to be 
George C. Johnson and Rev. S. T. Jack- 
son, who were duly reprimanded and sen- 
tence was suspended. 

Our trip was not without romance, as a 
real count fell hopelessly in love with one 
of the members of our party, a young lady 
of sixteen summers. Moreover, the count 
did swear that he would never return to his 
castle on the Rhine without leading cap- 
tive thereto the fair maid of his heart's 
desire ! 

Now that the reader knows "who we 
are," further nonsense must be eliminated 
as we proceed on our journey. 

A pleasing ride from San Francisco 
takes us over a variety of scenery as we 
glide by orchards of luscious fruit and 
fields of sweet peas whose fragrance is 
wafted to us in the train. A glimpse is 
had of the dome of Stanford University 
as we proceed southward. A short stop is 
made at Santa Clara, a town of 5,000 in- 
habitants, which adjoins San Jose on the 
northwest and is a great fruit-shipping 
point. Santa Clara Valley is some pump- 
kins, so to speak, as they claim here that 
pne-half of the prunes in the United States 




< 1 



The Pacific Coast 81 

are grown in this valley, and not only 
prunes, but that the peaches, apricots and 
pears command the market of the world. 
In fact, they assert that Santa Clara Val- 
ley is the most fruitful spot in the world; 
that malarial fever and ague and such ills 
of the flesh are unknown here. Nice pic- 
ture, don't you think? 

SAN JOSE 

Thursday, July 15.— Our sojourn in 
the beautiful city of San Jose was like a 
dream. The city appealed to us, so 
cleanly, bright and attractive. Delight- 
fully located in the Santa Clara Valley, its 
favored residents claim it to be the rose 
garden of the West. Structures of stone 
and brick, two to seven stories high, line its 
well-paved streets. Its population is esti- 
mated over 50,000. 

Again on the train we bid adieu to San 
Jose and soon are passing immense orch- 
ards of prunes and apricots ; the trees of the 
latter were in some instances breaking un- 
der their luscious burdens. The process 
of drying, or "curing," the fruit by plac- 
ing the same on large wooden trays in the 
sun was very interesting to us. 

THE "big" trees 

The twenty-seven-mile side trip from 
San Jose brings us into Big Tree Station, 



82 Wonders of The Golden West 

where we alight to view the great redwood 
trees of the Santa Cruz Mountains. The 
Cathedral Group average 300 feet in 
height, the circumference of the entire 
group being 110 feet. We had our photos 
— twenty-seven of us— taken under the 
branches thereof. General Fremont is a 
pretty big fellow, standing without boots, 
280 feet high, circumference 71 feet. Our 
party of 27 members stood within its 
trunk, its holding capacity being 75 per- 
sons. 

The Giant is well named. It stands 306 
feet high, circumference 70 feet. It for- 
merly towered 381 feet prior to its top 
being broken. The General Grant is 325 
feet tall, 55 feet around the waist. There 
are several trees 200 feet high, having a 
reach of 150 feet to the first limb. These 
figures were taken verbatim from our 
courteous and versatile guide on the 
grounds. One fallen monarch is named 
Bryan, and following the general. custom, 
the entire party was photographed stand- 
ing on the prostrate Bryan. 

There is a McKinley tree, said to be the 
straightest tree in the grove ; also a Roose- 
velt tree. There are several trees of huge 
dimensions reserved for celebrities, one in 
honor of the present Chief Executive, and 
upon his visit to the grove it will be chris- 
tened Taft. 

A very pleasant afternoon was spent at 



The Pacific Coast 88 

Santa Cruz, a delightful seaside resort on 
Monterey Bay. The natural bridge of 
solid rock contiguous thereto was very in- 
teresting to behold. Luncheon and dinner 
were served at the Casino, which overlooks 
the beautiful waters of the bay. 

DEL MONTE AND MONTEREY 

Friday, July 16. — A day of unalloyed 
bhss was ours at Del Monte amid luxuri- 
ous surroundings. The hotel nestles amid 
a beautiful landscape of 126 acres. After 
breakfast we enjoyed the famous seven- 
teen-mile ride in autos, passing through 
the streets of Monterey, the oldest town in 
California. Here we observed many 
points of interest, viz. : The first frame and 
also the first brick building erected in Cali- 
fornia. The old Custom House is still 
standing. In rapid succession we pass the 
old Mission House, the Chinese settle- 
ment, thence through the famous Cypress 
Grove. Many of these old cypress trees 
are covered with moss and we were in- 
formed they have weathered the blasts for 
centuries. Soon we skirt the blue waters 
of the Pacific, viewing in the distance the 
Seal Rocks on the coast, upon which sev- 
eral seals were basking in the warm sun. 
The Ostrich Tree is discerned, so called 
because the outlines in the distance bear a 
striking resemblance to the ostrich. At 



84 Wonders of The Golden West 

Cypress Point we alight and view the pic- 
turesque scenery of the coast at closer 
range. 

THE MARINE GAEDENS 

The next point of interest was the Ma- 
rine Gardens in Monterey Bay, where in 
a glass-bottomed boat were seen the won- 
ders of submarine growth — beautiful 
plants, the star and other species of fish, 
curious rocks and various marine forma- 
tions which were indeed beautiful to be- 
hold. 

On the Pacific Coast I boldly stand 

And cast a wistful eye 
(To the dear old Bay of Monterey, 

Where my eyeglasses lie! 

Saturday, July 17. — An enjoyable day- 
light ride is that en route to Santa Barbara 
through Monterey Valley. At the A.-Y.- 
P. Exposition we attended an illustrated 
lecture demonstrating the operation of the 
great harvesting machine cutting the 
grain, threshing the straw, then bagging 
the grain for the mill, the entire process 
requiring the united services of several 
men, the machinery being drawn by about 
thirty horses. From the train in Mon- 
terey Valley we witnessed one of these 
huge machines in operation. 

The train skirted the waters of the Pa- 



The Pacific Coast 85 

cific Ocean for many miles and with the 
passing of the day we witnessed a gor- 
geous sunset. The great orb of day was 
seemingly sinking into the waters of the 
Pacific. Slowly it was receding from 
view, lower, until nothing was seen but the 
vast expanse of waters and the radiance of 
the after-glow. It was a novelty to us 
from the East — a glorious sunset on the 
Pacific Coast! 

SANTA BARBARA 

Sunday, July 18. — ^A day of rest at the 
famous mountain and seaside resort of 
Santa Barbara. The beautiful bay and 
the neighboring mountains, combined with 
a climate unsurpassed, attract many tour- 
ists to this section. The streets are lined 
with handsome residences, adorned with 
beautiful lawns and flowers of exquisite 
beauty and fragrance typical of Southern 
California. A goodly number of our party 
attended the morning service at the M. E. 
Church and we were very warmly greeted 
by the Barbaraans (not barbarians) at the 
close of the service. At the Hotel Potter 
we felt like millionaires for the time being 
— and then we woke up ! 

Monday, July 19. — Ere taking our 
leave of this truly delightful spot we visit 
the Old Mission, which proves very inter- 
esting. The history of these missions is a 



86 Wonders of The Golden West 

very profitable study. Arriving at the 
grounds, an attendant monk, gowned and 
decorated with the crucifix, acts as our 
guide. The interior of the mission is plain 
and even austere in appearance. Passing 
to the grounds adjoining we note that 
there are interred many of the Mission 
Fathers. Some of the historic tombs are 
mildewed and crumbling with the passage 
of time. This historic mission was built 
in 1782 and contains many relics and me- 
mentos of the early days. 

In one of the rooms are framed photo- 
graphs of Presidents McKinley and 
Roosevelt, taken upon the occasion of their 
respective visits to this mission. 

A walk up the winding stairway to the 
old belfry concludes our visit here. 



SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AND 

THE GREAT AMERICAN 

DESERT 




SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA.— Page 



CHAPTER V 

Southern California and the Great 
American Desert 

We are now fairly in Southern Califor- 
nia, certainly a great section of the State. 
We Easterners, however, received a set- 
back to our preconceived ideas of this 
boasted section, as we observed that the 
grasses were not clothed in their wonted 
verdure of green (except where artificially 
watered) and the roads were dusty. It 
seemed the country was suffering from 
drought. As we say in the East, "We 
need rain." An individual who was evi- 
dently familiar with the climatic conditions 
endeavored to enlighten the writer of these 
lines by stating that California had its 
"dry" season and its "wet" season; more- 
over, that if the "wet" season were to set in 
now (in July) the fruits would be irrepar- 
ably ruined. The elucidation was plaus- 
ible, indeed, showing how well Nature pro- 
tects its own. 

LOS ANGELES 

The train in due time brings us into Los 
Angeles, the city that has been lauded to 

89 



90 Wonders of The Golden West 

the skies. The fun began when we at- 
tempted to board a trolley car to our hotel, 
with our grips in hand. The cars all 
seemed to be well filled, but we clambered 
in, anyway. Then there was more fun 
when we essayed to make our exit. Ruffled 
clothing and tempers were a natural result. 
"But all is fair in love, in war" and in 
travel ! 

One readily observes that this is an up- 
to-date city. Progress and activity walk 
hand in hand and prosperity is in evidence. 
This is our impression as we walk through 
the crowded thoroughfares. The city is 
attractive and more cleanly than many of 
our Eastern cities. The streets are busy 
with traffic. 

UP MOUNT LOWE 

Tuesday, July 20. — All tourists have 
the "sightseeing" mania — a development 
resulting, methinks, because of the travel 
microbe's proximity to the braineatus. All 
physicians will not, of course, agree with 
me on this, but be this as it may. Mount 
Lowe was to us the first point of interest. 
This is a peak of the Sierra Madre range 
of mountains which rises 6,100 feet above 
sea level. As we ascended the mount the 
panorama spread before us was indeed 
fine. The trip might have been thrilling. 
In fact, we were eager to be "thrilled," but 
the lazy electric railway suddenly ends at 



Southern California 91 

Alpine Tavern, 1,100 feet from the sum- 
mit! The electric railway should extend 
the trip to the summit — in other words, 
should finish the job. The trip to Mount 
Lowe did not meet our expectations. 

AN OSTRICH FARM 

'A visit to the Ostrich Farm at South 
Pasadena proved very interesting. Some 
very fine specimens are here exhibited. 
When a male ostrich, w^e were informed, 
finds a mate the happy (?) couple are 
given a separate enclosure, thus avoiding 
any domestic infelicities. 

We were "introduced" to "Col. and 
Mrs. Roosevelt," but the "Colonel" strut- 
ted off in high dudgeon and absolutely 
ignored us. 

•'Mr. and Mrs. Wm. H. Taft" were at 
home and leading the "simple life." 

"Carrie Nation," so named because of a 
proclivity for smashing things; neverthe- 
less a member of our party — a Methodist 
parson — essayed to ride "Carrie" around 
the pen, and he succeeded in doing so, 
evoking great applause thereby. 

Pasadena is worthy of passing remark, 
as it is a beautiful city. Its suburbs are 
adorned wdth picturesque homes, embow- 
ered with plants and flowers such as only 
Southern California can grow. A pleas- 
ing ride, and we are again in Los Angeles. 



92 Wonders of The Golden West 

It is claimed that the metropolis of 
Southern California is adding to its popu- 
lation 25,000 annually. The city has a 
great influx of tourists both summer and 
winter, but it is at the latter time that Los 
Angeles and Southern California are at 
their best. The city is very comfortable at 
this writing. The nights are usually cooler 
than in the East. 

LONG ISLAND UNKNOWN 

It is worthy of mention that many East- 
ern people having settled in California as- 
sert that thej^ would not return East to 
live under any circumstances. The loyalty 
of these Calif ornians to their State was re- 
freshing and worthy of imitation. So 
when in conversation the writer was asked 
from whence he came, he replied from 
Long Island, New York State. Now, 
do you know that many of those Western- 
ers had never heard of Long Island! 
Well, what do you think of that? Most 
of them had heard of New York City and 
the rapacious Tammany Indians and of 
their attacks on the city treasury. I was 
compelled to admit there was considerable 
truth in the report. Met a gentleman at 
the Angeles, who had just finished a deal 
in securing a vast tract of land in Califor- 
nia. Said he : "When the waters from the 
mountains are brought down to these val- 
leys, the process of irrigation will trans- 



Southern California 93 

form California into the garden spot of the 
[United States. I came from Missouri and 
am here to stay." 

Wednesday, July 21. — This is our final 
day in the city, and it is go-as-you-please 
day. The writer and wife arose before 
breakfast and later boarded an electric 
train for Long Beach, the Coney Island 
of Los Angeles, and it was here we en- 
joyed our first dip in the Pacific Ocean. 
It must be great to enjoy Old Neptune 
every day in the year. Why not live here 
always ? 

Walking down to the Long Pier, we 
observed, at a rough guess, about 200 fish- 
ermen vainly trying to induce a fish to 
bite. 

RIVERSIDE 

Thursday, July 22. — We took our 
leave of Los Angeles via Salt Lake route 
to Riverside, ofttimes described as the 
"Orange Grove Trip." About noon we 
arrived at Glenwood Inn, California's 
mission hotel, built in the style of the old 
Spanish missions, with the vineclad per- 
golas clinging to the walls, the roof gar- 
den, the long arcades and the inviting 
swings. From the graceful campanile 
peal forth at intervals the sweet tones of 
the old mission bells, a symbol of the quiet 
and peace characteristic of this haven of 
rest. 



94 Wonders of The Golden West 



"paradise" 



An esteemed friend who had previously 
visited the Far West described this spot, 
"Paradise," as follows: "Returning to the 
hotel you take a seat in one of the swings, 
and as you sway back and forth, toying 
with the oranges you have gathered and 
dreaming day-dreams, as you look up 
through the foliage to the perfect peace 
of the sky above, suddenly from the 
stately campanile come the sweet chimes 
of the bells as they peal out * Nearer, My 
God, to Thee,' or 'My Faith Looks Up to 
Thee.' This signifies that the evening 
meal is about to be served, and as the last 
peal dies away slowly you make your way 
to the dining-room with its stately mission 
furniture, and here, while you dine, softly 
and sweetly float around you the sweet 
tones of the harp. Am I not right, is it 
not 'Paradise'?" The picture is true to 
life — only I could not describe it as beau- 
tifully as quoted above. 

After luncheon we took a memorable 
ride in autos through the famous Magno- 
lia and Victoria avenues and other beauti- 
ful thoroughfares. 

UP MOUNT RUBIDOUX 

Here are many miles of palm-shaded 
driveways, flanked on either side by thou- 



Southern California 05 

sands of acres of golden-fruited orange 
trees brought to a state of perfection by 
irrigation. Proceeding up Rubidoux 
Mountain, we reach the summit, 1,300 feet 
above the city, at which point a magnifi- 
cent panorama is unfolded of the beauti- 
ful city of Riverside, the Santa Ana River 
and groves of orange, lemon and grape- 
fruit trees covering an area of 20,000 
acres, flanked in the background by lofty 
mountain peaks, completing a picture no 
artist could paint. 

Returning to the inn we are escorted 
through the suite of rooms called the 
President's Suite, occupied by the Presi- 
dent and other celebrities when guests at 
this hostelry. A large bearskin ornaments 
the suite, being one of the trophies of ex- 
President Roosevelt's skill as the mighty 
hunter. 

From Riverside great shipments of lus- 
cious oranges and lemons are sent to all 
parts of the United States. 

Oranges need water during the "dry" 
period and the city has 60 miles of cement- 
lined canals and 500 miles of ditches and 
pipe lines, with a capacity for distribut- 
ing eighty million gallons per day during 
the irrigating season. 

Riverside boasts a population of 12,- 
000; 15 public schools; 4 banks; $300 de- 
posits for each man, woman and child; 25 



96 Wonders of The Golden West 

churches; no slums and no saloons. A 
good showing, is it not? 

It was a source of regret that being so 
near famous Redlands — about 40 miles — 
yet our itinerary did not include that pic- 
turesque region. 

While we were descending Mount Ru- 
bidoux I remarked to our chauffeur that 
the environments of Riverside were almost 
perfection and that a sojourn here for an 
extended period would be very desirable, 
to which he readily assented, and he then 
related that a short time previously an ex- 
chief of police of New York had visited 
this region and after enjoying its beauties, 
he remarked to the chauffeur: "Riverside 
is all right. It is a beautiful spot; it has 

a heavenly aspect, only it's h not to 

be able to get a drink of whiskey. I'd give 
$5 to get it." The chauffeur smiled as he 
said, "Well, he got it all right." 

The Morning Mission and Riverside 
Enterprise gave the members of our party 
the following "puff": 

'^^EPWORTH LEAGUERS ARRIVE IN THE CITY 

— ^DELEGATES TO NATIONAL CONVEN 

TION AT SEATTLE VIEW GROVES 

ON RETURN 

"An excursion composed of Epworth 
League members from New York and 
Pittsburg arrived in the city yesterday 
morning and are at the Glenwood. 



Southern California 07 

"This morning they leave for Salt Lake 
City. 

'The party is Tour E of the Gillespie- 
Kinports excursions. After making the 
trip through the Canadian Rockies they 
spent five days in Seattle at the Epworth 
League National Convention. They have 
visited Portland, San Francisco, Santa 
Cruz and the big trees, Santa Barbara and 
Los Angeles before coming here. After 
leaving Salt Lake City they will visit the 
Yellowstone National Park and Pike's 
Peak and some of the scenery around 
Colorado Springs before returning to the 
East. Their entire trip will consume 39 
days. 

"After lunch yesterday the Leaguers 
spent the afternoon in touring the valley 
by automobile and taking in the view from 
Mount Rubidoux. 

"They were enthusiastic in their praises. 
Rev. John J. Foust, who is in charge of 
the party, said last night: 'The groves 
and flowers about Riverside are the most 
pleasing sight that we have seen so far on 
our trip. I have been charmed with the 
Western bustle and activity that has been 
evident in Southern California. Every- 
thing seems to be teeming with life.' 

"Rev. Foust is the pastor of the Astoria 
Methodist Episcopal Church, one of the 
largest New York churches. 



08 Wonders of The Golden West 

"The following is a list of the members 
of the party : 

"Mr. and Mrs. B. Atkinson, Miss At- 
kinson, INIiss Houston, Rev. S. T. Jack- 
son, Miss Harper, Miss Hursh, the 
Misses McComb, Mrs. S. R. Leach, Mrs. 
B. Moore and daughter, Alexander B. 
Moore, G. J. Johnson, Mr. and Mrs. J. 
V. Austin, Mr. and Mrs. J. R. Van Dine, 
Miss Kathryn Taylor, Mrs. L. L. Hun- 
ter, Mrs. C. M. Knight, Miss Lilla Hun- 
ter, Miss D. Hunter, Livingston Hun- 
ter." 

Friday, July 23. — The train glides out 
of Riverside, leaving the luxurious orange 
groves and the exquisite flowers of beauti- 
ful Southern California. 

O^^R THE GREAT AMERICAN DESERT 

We are now bound for Salt Lake City, 
but ere we reach the Mormon city we are 
to traverse a somewhat different section 
of country, not entirely unlooked for as 
we had learned something of the vast area 
of arid lands known as the IMojave, or 
Great American Desert, extending some 
375 miles. 

Hitherto I have written about the beau- 
tiful things we have seen on the trip; the 
majestic mountains, the fertile valleys, the 
picturesque rivers and the busy cities, but 



Southern California 99 

one cannot eat pie and have pie all the 
time, so now we have a picture of barren 
waste. The verdure and vegetation seem 
to have entirely disappeared as we behold 
the barren mountain ranges and vast 
stretches of plains devoid, actually 
stripped of all signs of vegetable growth, 
with the possible exception of dwarfed 
bushes, called greasewood. 

Ere reaching Kelso we learned that 
rain had fallen in the desert the previous 
morning, the first rainfall here in two 
years. Kelso, by the way, is a settlement 
within the borders of Southern California 
of about a dozen dwellings and we read 
on the railway station that we are 236 
miles from Los Angeles and 5^5 miles 
from Salt Lake City. So we feel encour- 
aged as we proceed still further into the 
desert. 

On, on — sand, sand. The heat was in- 
tense; the dust arose like a fog. All the 
doors and windows were closed and still 
it penetrated the car. The tourists had 
divested themselves of all unnecessary 
clothing; some of necessity had to be re- 
tained. Drops of perspiration were on 
every noble brow. Conversation lagged, 
then completely ceased. Every one was 
busy with a single thought, viz: How 
long, oh. Lord! will this last or how long 
will I last if this thing keeps up? The 
situation was brief yet interesting while 



100 Wonders of The Golden West 

it lasted, then relief came. The rainfall 
had been for us a balm of Gilead. 

We had during the trip witnessed beau- 
tiful sunsets, the orb of day sinking, as it 
were, amid snow-capped mountains and 
from the Pacific Coast, but we now en- 
joyed the innovation of beholding a glori- 
ous sunset on the desert, transforming the 
barren mountains and plains into a sem- 
blance of weird grandeur, while the West- 
ern horizon never seemed more beautiful 
than in this instance as the lingering rays 
bathed the arid wilderness in golden splen- 
dor. 

Will man ever reclaim at least a por- 
tion of these vast wastes of land? 

Saturday, July 24. — At early morn our 
train is dashing through the land of the 
Mormons. The first impression one re- 
ceives of Utah is not altogether favorable, 
as we are still in the barren lands. At 
long intervals we pass small settlements, 
finally arriving at Tintic, the great mining 
section. 

Some of the humorists of the party sug- 
gested that inasmuch as we were now in 
the land of the Mormons a "committee of 
protection" be forthwith appointed to 
guard the interests of the unmarried fe- 
males of our party against any encroach- 
ment of the said Mormons, but there was 
such a protest on the part of the ladies 
that no action was taken. 



SALT LAKE CITY, THE MOR- 
MON METROPOLIS 



CHAPTER VI 

Salt Lake City^ The Mormon Me- 
tropolis 

Soon fertile valleys are again in evi- 
dence. Then lo! in the distance we catch 
a glimpse of the blue waters of the great 
Salt Lake. The Wasatch Mountains loom 
before us in their grandeur and about noon 
the train lands us safely in Salt Lake 
City. 

The Mormon metropolis was gaily deco- 
rated with flags and bunting, commemo- 
rating the fiftieth anniversary of the late 
Brigham Young's advent to Salt Lake 
City. It was apparent that we were in 
a very pleasant and prosperous city. The 
streets are cleanly; the stores are up to 
date and one cannot discern a Mormon 
from the average citizen. 

After partaking of luncheon at our ho- 
tel we feel perfectly at home and at peace 
with all the world, including the Mor- 
mons. An enjoyable jaunt is that to Salt 
Air, a popular resort where we take a dip 
in the famous'Great Salt Lake, the waters 
of which are so strong and buoyant that it 

103 



104* Wonders of The Golden West 

is almost impossible to go down if one sim- 
ply keeps one's equilibrium. The masses 
flock to this lake resort by the thousands 
and it is great sport to witness the bathers 
bob up and down like corks. In the eve- 
ning we witnessed a bicycle contest in Salt 
Lake Place. 

Sunday, July 25. — Day of rest. At- 
tended morning service at the M. E. 
Church. The pastor, in concluding his 
discourse, alluded to the numerous tour- 
ists in the city, saying he hoped some 
would remain permanently in the West 
and that others would return to their re- 
spective duties in the East. 

THE TABERNACLE 

Every one, of course, pays a visit to the 
world-famed Mormon Tabernacle, an im- 
mense auditorium, elliptical in shape and 
which seats over 8,000. It is 250 feet long, 
150 feet wide and 80 feet in height. The 
acoustic properties are indeed remarkable. 
At a distance of 200 feet our guide 
dropped a pin on the wooden railing and 
whispered to us in the gallery, *'Did you 
hear that?" both of which we heard with 
incredible distinctness. We .attended the 
afternoon meeting, but unfortunately for 
us it was not a Mormon service. 

In the west end of the tabernacle is the 
great organ, conceded by many musicians 



The Mormon Metropolis 105 

as being the finest instrument of its kind 
m America. It was constructed more 
than thirty years ago from native materi- 
als New mechanism is of necessity placed 
m the instrument from time to time, con- 
sequently It is up to date. It is capable 
of many tonal varieties. The free recitals 
given on various occasions are largely at- 
tended and highly appreciated by all lov- 
ers of music. 

Brigham Young's grave is within a pri- 
vate enclosure on First Avenue. Several 
of his wives and a favorite son also repose 

An imposing monument, dedicated to 
the memory of the late President of the 
l.atter-day Saints, stands at the head of 
Mam Street. 

The Eagle Gate, formerly an entrance 
to the private grounds of Brigham Youno- 
IS another interesting point to the tourist' 
Ihe Gate has been rebuilt and now ap- 
pears as m the days of its late owner 



THE TEMPLE 



Visitors are not permitted to invade the 
sacred precincts of the Mormon Temple 
as it IS a holy place devoted to sacred ordi- 
nances of marriage, baptism and services 
tor the dead. All marriages solemnized 
within the temple are binding through all 
eternity, while marriages solemnized out- 



106 Wonders of The Golden West 

side the temple are binding only during 
the earthly life. 

Surmounting the central spire of the 
temple is a figure of hammered copper, 
covered with gold leaf, representing the 
Angel Moroni. 

An enjoyable trolley ride is that to the 
United States army post at Fort Doug- 
las. On the brow of the hill a magnificent 
view is had of the picturesque Salt Lake 
Valley and the city environed by the Wa- 
satch Mountains, some of the snowy peaks 
glistening under the rays of the midsum- 
mer sun. 

The residential section of the city is 
noted for its handsome homes, many being 
embowered with fragrant flowers and 
shrubbery. 

At 6:45 P.M. our train is bearing us 
nearly northward through a prosperous 
farming section of the State. Soon we 
traverse a mountainous roadbed and dark- 
ness precludes further sightseeing. We 
cannot outline our environment, but we 
feel that the landscape all about us is un- 
trammeled by the haunts of man and that 
peace and tranquillity reign supreme. 



THE WONDERS OF YELLOW- 
STONE NATIONAL PARK 



CHAPTER VII 

The Wonders of Yellowstone Na- 
tional Park 

Monday^ July 26. — Here we are at 
Yellowstone railway station, a corner of 
Montana, at the western entrance to the 
Yellowstone National Park. This grand 
reservation is located in the northwest cor- 
ner of Wyoming. Its boundaries overlap 
a few miles into Montana on the north and 
Idaho on the west. Its area is a fraction 
over 3,312 square miles. Three of the 
great rivers of the United States — the 
Missouri, Yellowstone and Columbia — 
have their respective sources in Yellow- 
stone Park. 

We are to spend five entire days in this 
reservation and the first thing in order 
was to breakfast at the station restaurant, 
after which the fun began, as there were 
not sufficient conveyances to take us 
through the park, ov/ing to the unusual 
rush of tourists ahead of us, consequently 
we were compelled to "lay over" until the 
next morning. Our tempers were some- 
what ruffled by the enforced delay. Rev, 

109 



110 Wonders of The Golden West 

Jackson said, "My brother, let us take a 
walk and 'keep sweet.' " So he and the 
writer plunged into the Montana forest, 
unmindful of bears or other lurking dan- 
gers, inasmuch as my ministerial compan- 
ion had on the "whole armor" and the 
"Sword of the Spirit," while my faith was 
strong and running capacities fairly good. 
At the midday luncheon we had re- 
gained our proverbial good tempers and 
on board the "Chesterton" good cheer pre- 
vailed. 

GREAT TREES FROM ACORNS GROW! 

A fair maiden hailing from the wilds of 
New Jersey, in a spirit of fun, started can- 
vassing on the train for an imaginary book 
narrating the stirring incidents of our 
trip. She met with great success in se- 
curing subscriptions. Thus partly through 
jesting there followed inspiration and 
then realization — hence this tale. 

In the evening Miss Kathryn Taylor 
entertained us with "I'm Keeping This 
Seat for a Friend" and other humorous 
recitations, while Brother Jackson submit- 
ted injunctions pertinent to the occasion, 
consequently our "lay over" day in the 
wilds of Montana proved a cloud with a 
silver lining. 

Departed this (Western) life: Rev. M. 
W. Womer and Mr. George C. Johnson. 



Yellowstone National Park 111 

After camping out they will return to the 
cultured East. 

Miss H. H. Stevenson bade us a tearful 
farewell at Los Angeles. In fact, we all 
felt the parting very keenly, especially 
when the quartette (home talent) sang 
with great emotion, concluding with the 
touching refrain "Good-by, Stevy; you're 
goin' to leave us now." Joe, our porter, 
went into a paroxysm of laughter; even 
the train stopped as Miss Stevenson 
alighted. 

Tuesday, July 27. — In the early morn- 
ing at the western entrance to Uncle Sam's 
reservation two heavy stages and one sur- 
rey, containing our party of twenty-five 
members, roll merrily into Christmas Tree 
Park under leaden skies, but who cares for 
the weather? Not we. 

The beautiful Madison River comes 
into view, then the military post near the 
western approach to Madison Canyon — 
the canyon, by the way, being a prelude to 
the wonders we are to witness in this won- 
drous reservation. 

At National Park Mountain we come 
to the junction of Gibbon and Firehole 
rivers, the source of the Madison River, 
the latter being one of the main branches 
of the Missouri River. 

The Cascades of the Firehole are very 
beautiful and the driveway becomes more 
interesting as the Rockies continue to un- 



112 Wonders of The Golden West 

fold before us a series of moving pictures. 
After crossing Nez Perces Creek we 
catch sight of our first stopping place, the 
Fountain Hotel. We were chilled to the 
bone and the cheerful log fire was fully 
appreciated. Ere starting on the after- 
noon drive Governor Hughes, of New 
York, entered the hostelry. We gave him 
three hearty cheers and he smiled and ex- 
tended the gubernatorial hand. 

FREAKS OF NATURE 

The skies brightened and we were soon 
viewing the wonders and freaks of nature 
abounding here on every hand. We are 
now in the Lower Geyser Basin, embrac- 
ing an area of thirty to forty square 
miles, over which are scattered hot boiling 
springs, geysers active and otherwise, 
paint pots numbering more than 600 — ^but 
fear not, life is too short ; we shall mention 
a few only. 

The Fountain Geyser, south of the ho- 
tel, failed to erupt during our brief stay 
here. Near the roadway are the Mam- 
moth Paint Pots. This remarkable cal- 
dron has a basin which measures 40 by 60 
feet, with a mass of fine whitish substance 
which is in a state of constant agitation. 
It resembles a boiling pot of paint, produc- 
ing a continuous "plop-plop." The cones 
are of various hues and very pleasing to 



Yellowstone National Park 113 

the eye. In close proximity is the Excel- 
sior Geyser (or "Hell's Half Acre"), 
Morning Glory Spring, noted for its beau- 
tiful coloring, as is the Punch Bowl. 
There is a boiling spring here; it should 
be named Laundry Spring. One drops a 
handkerchief into the boiling waters, and 
lo! it disappears into the depths. If one is 
patient, the handkerchief finally comes up 
whiter than snow, with no charge for the 
service. There are many others worthy 
of mention. 

OLD FAITHFUL INN 

This is the end of the first day's coach- 
ing, and we are glad to alight. One im- 
mediately feels perfectly "at home" in this 
quaint hostelry, an extensive log structure 
so quaint and decidedly unique in its con- 
struction that one is lost in admiration. 
The stairways have split logs for steps 
and the old-time fireplace is a cheerful 
sight with its burning logs of lurid flame, 
while the massive clock, keeping Mountain 
time, ticks, ticks merrily the hours away. 
The interior is artistically arranged, in- 
dicative of a forest conquered and utilized. 

OLD FAITHFUL GEYSER 

The guide escorts the tourists from 
(every clime and nation to the various boil* 



114 Wonders of The Golden West 

ing springs and geysers which abound in 
the immediate vicinity, as the Giant, the 
Beehive, the Lion, the Lioness and Cubs, 
the Sponge and many others, but the most 
noted, the rehable friend of the tourist, is 
the Old Faithful Geyser. Every sixty- 
five minutes (with rarely any variation), 
day and night, summer or winter, rain or 
shine, this wondrous freak of nature gives 
a performance. Its eruptions begin with 
a few spasmodic spurts, followed by a col- 
umn of hot water projected upward 125 
to 150 feet for a period of three to five 
minutes. At night the searchlight from 
the roof of the hotel is turned upon it, and 
it is then Old Faithful shines forth in all 
its glory as the ascending waters assume 
the various hues of the rainbow, then 
changing to ethereal snowy whiteness of 
dazzling splendor. 

A FEAST OF "pOPCORN" 

After enjoying the spectacular exhibi- 
tion every one returned to the hotel and 
from the great log fire the porter popped 
a big pan of corn, passing it in turn to the 
guests, reminding us of the good old days 
— or wintry nights — "down on the farm." 

Governor Hughes is here and is evi- 
dently enjoying himself. The Governor 
is also making a circuit of the park, ac- 
companied by his secretary. A gentle- 



Yellowstone National Park 115 

man at the hotel said to me : "You people 
of New York should be proud of your 
Governor Hughes. He would make an 
ideal President, and though I am not a 
Republican, he would receive my support 
were he to be a candidate." 

Wednesday, July 28. — We take our 
leave of Old Faithful Inn. Castle Gey- 
ser, in the immediate vicinity, one of the 
oldest active geysers, failed to give us an 
exhibition. A splendid view is had of 
Kepler Cascades as the waters leap from 
shelf to shelf of a rocky chasm in a series 
of enchanting falls. 

As we roll merrily along our driver in- 
dicates the point of the Continental Di- 
vide, where the waters, insignificant at the 
start, divide, one stream sloping towards 
the west, finally reaching the Pacific, and 
the other, reinforced later by "feeding" 
waters, eventually reaching the Atlantic 
Coast. A view is obtained of Shoshone 
Lake and in due time, or in time for lunch, 
we reach Thumb Bay Lunch Station, 
which is on the west arm of Yellowstone 
Lake. The blue waters of the lake, with 
the snow peak range of mountains in the 
background, forms a delightful panorama 
from our point of view. 

A "fish" story 

Prior to refreshing the "inner man" a 
guide, acting in the dual capacity of leq- 



116 Wonders of The Golden West 

turer, takes us in charge and leads us 
to various pools of beauteous effects in col- 
ors, hues of dazzling brilliance, boiling 
springs, spouting geysers and curious for- 
mations of considerable area. At one of 
these pools it is a remarkable fact that one 
can fish from the bank of the lake and 
then boil the "catch" in the boiling spring 
without changing one's position. To one 
who has never visited the Far West this 
may appear fishy. 

An esteemed friend who had previously 
taken the trip to the West stated having 
seen geranium trees in California eight 
feet high and the writer of these lines 
cheerfully corroborates the statement, hav- 
ing viewed some of those trees when pass- 
ing through that State. 

Therefore marvel not at any statement 
emanating from the West. 

AN ELECTRIC RAILWAY VERSUS STAGE 
COACHES 

The second day of coaching in the park 
is up a precipitous mountain roadway. 
Uncle Sam would do a good turn for both 
the horse and tourist were the lumbersome 
horse-killing stage coaches abolished and 
an electric road substituted to traverse this 
reservation. The circuit of Yellowstone 
Park by stage covers about 170 miles. 
Even with four horses to each stage, the 



Yellowstone National Park 117 

strain upon the horses at some of the al- 
most endless hills was indeed terrific. The 
veins of the animals would stand out like 
whipcords. The ordeal is cruelty to ani- 
mals. One of our horses of the surrey was 
completely exhausted. After considerable 
difficulty a new team was obtained and we 
proceeded. The sun shone brightly and 
the chipmunks and squirrels came forth 
from their hiding places to greet us, while 
some beautiful specimens of deer seemed 
to welcome our intrusion to their haunts 
in the Rockies. 

Here, amid the luxuriant pines and tow- 
ering cliffs, one breathes the pure air of 
heaven at an altitude of over 8,000 feet 
above sea level. From the roadway is af- 
forded a good view of the Natural Bridge, 
an interesting arch of stone, which our 
driver informs us is some forty feet high 
and six feet wide. 

Looking toward the mountain range on 
the east side of the lake is seen the "Sleep- 
ing Giant," formed of the peaks of Saddle 
Mountain. Soon we are beside the placid 
waters of Yellowstone Lake as our stages 
roll up to the Lake Hotel, where we are 
to sojourn for the night. 

FEEDING THE BEARS 

Just before sunset quite a number of 
the guests sauntered out to where the bears 



118 Wonders of The Golden West 

come down from the mountains to their 
"feeding place" for their evening meal, 
generously provided by the hotel manage- 
ment. There were nine in all, big and 
small. Their antics were highly amusing, 
as each bear would try and eat everything 
in sight regardless of his fellow bears. 
Many of the "bears" in the human family 
are doing that very same thing in this 
work-a-day world of ours. What's the 
sense in being "bearish," anyhow? Finally 
big black "Joe," a stalwart grizzly, came 
stalking upon the scene and then the other 
bears slunk away as "Joe" asserted his 
authority. Governor Hughes was one of 
the spectators and hugely enjoyed the 
novel exhibition. 

YELLOWSTONE LAKE 

A delightful spot this, beside the waters 
of Yellowstone Lake, noted as the coldest 
body of water in North America at so 
great an altitude, 7,741 feet above sea 
level. It is fifteen by twenty miles in size. 
In the distance is Mount Sheridan, its 
peaks snow-capped, radiant and superb. 

Thursday, July 29. — This is our third 
day in the park. All Nature smiles. How 
good it is to be alive and in perfect health 
to enjoy and appreciate God's scenic 
splendors so lavishly displayed in this 
reservation. 



Yellowstone National Park 119 

As we now skirt the banks of the Yel- 
lowstone River, having passed the confines 
of the lake, our driver suddenly halts the 
team as he points to the waters on the 
brink, saying, "Look down there." We 
do so and behold the waters teeming with 
bright, shining trout. 

The conveyances halt and we alight to 
view the Mud Volcano, so called because 
of its peculiar formation, a grewsome 
freak of Nature about 30 feet in depth, 
emitting through a cave-like opening a 
lead-colored mass of mud having the sem- 
blance of soft mortar, which is being con- 
stantly belched forth, accompanied by 
dull, muffled sounds. Gazing thereon, one 
is lost for words and simply says: "Won- 
derful, wonderful!'* 

We enter Hayden Valley, the largest 
in the reservation, which is especially 
adapted as a grange for game. In the 
distance towers Mount Washburn at an 
elevation of 10,388 feet. 

We cross the Grand Canyon Bridge, 
the current of the river at this point being 
very rapid, the waters tumbling and swirl- 
ing in picturesque cataracts around masses 
of rocks, and a little later our driver draws 
rein as we catch our first view from the 
roadway of the Upper Falls of the Yel- 
lowstone, which have a drop of 135 feet. 
A quarter of a mile below the Yellowstone 
takes another leap of 360 feet, called the 



120 Wonders of The Golden West 

Lower or Great Falls. They are stu- 
pendous, majestic and awe-inspiring and 
we shall view them later at closer range. 

THE GRAND CANYON 

Our conveyances halt at Artist's Point, 
where we alight, and here we obtain the 
first and never-to-be-forgotten view of the 
Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. What 
pen can give any adequate conception of 
that great chasm yawning at one's feet. 
Its depth awes us ; its radiance charms the 
senses as we behold the exquisite hues of 
every conceivable color blended in perfect 
harmony, seemingly splashed from a gi- 
gantic palette, and yet so artistically 
painted by the Master Artist that the 
spectacle irresistibly conamands our high- 
est admiration I 

Before taking this trip I had read de- 
scriptions and looked at views of the 
Grand Canyon. Arriving upon the scene, 
my preconceptions of it were necessarily 
changed because the grandeur here un- 
folded cannot be described. It is the do- 
main where man is and should be silent, 
that the soul might commune with the Su- 
preme Power manifested in the splendors 
all about us. 

We next get a closer view of the Upper 
Falls as we stand upon the brink, gazing 
upon the great volume of water as it goes 



Yellowstone National Park 121 

foaming over the precipice, resplendent in 
its various hues. 

By this time nearly all of us were too 
full for utterance, yet we were glad to 
reach the Canyon Hotel in time for lunch- 
eon. I trust, for the sake of the ladies of 
the party, the above will not be misunder- 
stood. 

VIEW FROM INSPIRATION POINT 

In the afternoon special conveyances 
take us first to Inspiration Point, where, 
to our surprise, we espy an eagle's nest on 
a rock far below us ; it is seldom one gets 
higher than the American eagle. And 
then we gaze far into the depths at our 
feet below into the gorge, viewing its vast- 
ness and myriads of colored effects and 
the seemingly narrow stream winding its 
w^ay through the chasm transcendentally 
picturesque, flecked with foaming white, 
tinged with blue — the Yellowstone River. 
A young lady was heard to remark at this 
point: "Well, I've got my fifty-five dol- 
lars' worth right at this spot!" (that being 
the cost of a five-days' stage trip through 
the park) . 

THE LOWER FALLS 

After visiting Grand View and Point 
Lookout, where the tourist observes the 



122 Wonders of The Golden West 

canyon at various viewpoints, and one 
must do this in order to form a true con- 
ception of it in its entirety, we next de- 
scend the 497 steps leading to the brink of 
the Lower or Great Falls. Here we view 
the river as it dashes over the bank in 
glassy sheets. The spray in its wake, 
touched by the sunbeams, forms a perfect 
rainbow. The picture was indeed com- 
plete! 

IN THE GLOAMING 

!At twilight the Rev. S. T. Jackson and 
myself again visited Point Lookout, and 
in the gloaming there seemed in the soli- 
tude and the quietness, broken only by the 
sound of the falls, new beauties and revela- 
tions unfolding before us as we continued 
to gaze upon the glorious spectacle. Thus 
we tarried and communed until it was time 
to say "good-night." 

Friday, July 30.— A truly delightful 
ride is that from the Grand Canyon to 
Mammoth Hot Springs, passing many 
points of interest on the way. 

We note the "wedded trees." The 
trunks in their vigorous growth had inter- 
locked and thus grown up as one great 
tree. The white-capped waters of the Vir- 
ginia Cascades were decidedly pictur- 
esque, as were the Twin Lakes. 

Our driver drew rein at a curious boil- 



Yellowstone National Park 123 

ing spring, the "Frying Pan," and, sure 
enough, the shape exactly corresponds 
with the aforesaid utensil. We quenched 
our respective twenty-five thirsts at the 
noted Apollinaris Spring, the waters of 
which are refreshing, delicious and without 
price. 

NORRIS GEYSER BASIN 

We catch a glimpse of Electric Peak, 
which rises to supernal heights, and our 
"coaches" roll up to the Norris Hotel, 
where we alight for luncheon. The moun- 
tain air sharpens one's appetite, conse- 
quently the call to the dining-room is 
hailed with considerable satisfaction. Pre- 
paratory to that interesting feature a 
guide escorts us through Norris Geyser 
Basin, where we view more spouting gey- 
sers and boiling springs galore. A re- 
markable little geyser is the Constant, or 
Minute Man, which plays every three min- 
utes, with only a slight variation. The 
pool is twenty-four feet in diameter, filled 
with water of crystal clearness. 

A wondrous freak seen here is the Black 
Growler. It throws out but little water, 
which is very dark, having an odor of sul- 
phur. The continuous growl or roar from 
its internal or infernal regions below gives 
one the impression that a great factory is 
working overtime. 

Another neighboring monster is the 



124 Wonders of The Golden West 

''Hurricane," possibly related to the 
''Black Growler," being similar in the 
character of its eruptions, which is destruc- 
tive to surrounding vegetation and foliage. 
The afternoon drive brings us to Beaver 
Lake, a beautiful body of water, so called 
because the beavers have constructed real 
dams at certain points in the lake. Ob- 
sidian Cliff looms 250 feet above the road- 
way. This was formerly a famous resort 
for all the tribes of Rocky Mountain In- 
dians. It was here they assembled for 
their pow-wows and to adjust tribal diffi- 
culties. 

THE GOLDEN GATE 

Our stages now s^omg into one of the 
most picturesque points of the park, a 
rugged pass between the base of lofty 
Bunsen Peak and the southern extremity 
of Terrace Mountain, known as the 
"Golden Gate." The sides of these rocky 
walls, which rise nearly 300 feet above the 
roadway, are covered with a yellow moss, 
hence the suggestive name the pass now 
bears. 

THE SILVER GATE 

Another surprise awaits us as we pass 
through a strange, weird region, called the 
"Silver Gate and the Hoodoos." These 
curious formations, comprising huge 




Oh 



Yellowstone National Park 125 

blocks of limestone of grotesque shapes 
and weird proportions, cover an area of a 
square mile, in the midst of which the road- 
way makes an abrupt turn, passing be- 
tween these great freaks, which rise fully 
75 feet high; hence the name "Silver 
Gate." 

MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS 

We shortly land, twenty-five strong, in 
vigorous condition at our hotel at Mam- 
moth Hot Springs, and very soon we start 
out to view the terrace building hot 
springs, which are noted for their great 
beauty and to which tourists have been 
lured to behold from the uttermost parts 
of the habitable globe. These peculiar 
springs occupy several acres on the north- 
ern slope of Terrace Mountain. 

Minerva Terrace covers an area of 
nearly an acre, having a mass of deposit 
with a hot spring on the summit, some 
twenty feet in diameter, the temperature 
of which is 154 degrees Fahrenheit. These 
layers of deposit present the most delicate 
coloring, from the lightest cream to the 
deepest shades of yellow and orange, com- 
mingled with transparent hues of blue. 

Jupiter Terrace, the largest of the en- 
tire group, has a brilliantly colored deposit 
extending some 2,000 feet along the edge 
of a high mound south of Minerva Ter- 
race. It is a good climb to the summit, 



126 Wonders of The Golden West 

where one observes two large springs of 
boiling water trickling down over the ter- 
races. 

This great mass of terrace-building de- 
posit is the result of ages of continuous 
deposition from these boiling springs. The 
flowing portion grows rapidly, while the 
larger dry part is crumbling. 

Contiguous to this point is located a 
large United States cavalry post. Scouts 
are employed by the Government, their 
duties being to protect the beauties of the 
reservation from vandalism, prevent the 
spreading of camp fires and to preserve 
good order in general. Indeed, since our 
entrance into the park we have been in 
close touch with guards on horseback fol- 
lowing our coaches, so that the tourist is 
quite as safe here as at "home, sweet 
home." 

It was from the Mammoth Springs Ho- 
tel that Governor Hughes took his depar- 
ture from the park by way of Gardiner 
entrance. A member of our party, an 
enthusiastic admirer of the Governor, re- 
marked as he grasped the gubernatorial 
hand, "Well, Governor, I hope some day 
to greet you as ^President,' " to which Gov- 
ernor Hughes quickly responded; "Thank 
you, but don't worry about that, sir." We 
all esteemed it a privilege as well as an 
honor to have toured the park at the iden- 
tical time with the Governor, while some 



Yellowstone National ParJc 127 

of the ladies declared it was a piece of 
good luck, as they were unanimous in the 
thought that the present Governor of New 
York will in due time become "the Presi- 
dent." 

I noted that there are no "frills" on the 
Governor, no "big stick" in evidence; that 
he ate, drank and smoked like the common 
run of mankind and that if he "gets the 
job" of being President he will measure 
up to the "job." That, in plain words, is 
my impression of the man. 

Saturday, July 31. — This is our fifth 
and last day in the park. We bid adieu to 
Mammoth Hot Springs, repassing some 
of the scenes we had observed the previous 
day. Our driver grows communicative. 
Was it because of "tips"? Perish that ig- 
noble thought ! He informs us that snow- 
storms begin here some seasons as early 
as October; that snowbanks were in evi- 
dence up to July 1 of the present year. In 
answer to the inquiry as to whether he was 
married, he replied emphatically, "No, and 
never shall be; never liked women well 
enough to marry one." He further eluci- 
dated that while he "did not like the 
women," he provided a home for his two 
sisters. We told him jocularly that there 
was still hope for him and that when we 
again visited the park we hoped to learn 
that he was supporting some "other fel- 



128 Wonders of The Golden West 

low's sister," to which suggestion he 
snapped his w^hip at the "off" mare and 
said: *'Never, on your life!" 

Stopping at Norris Hotel for luncheon, 
we soon skirt the Gibbon River and can- 
yon, the boiling Beryl Spring and view 
gigantic Mount Sheridan at close range, 
in due time reaching the junction of the 
Gibbon and Firehole rivers, then the 
Madison River, and a little later we are 
made glad at the familiar sight of Christ- 
mas Tree Park, our starting point at the 
western entrance to Yellowstone Park. 

We had made an actual circuit of Uncle 
Sam's great park; had experienced five 
days of life on the *'stage"; had drawn the 
curtains behind the scenes, and the won- 
ders we had witnessed will abide with us 
as long as we live. 

We partake of a "farewell' luncheon at 
the Yellowstone railway station and as the 
sun is sinking in the western horizon we 
are gliding over the green fields of Idaho, 
rich in verdure and attesting in silent elo- 
quence the bountiful harvests awaiting 
the husbandmen. 

Salt Lake City, Sunday, August 1.— ' 
Day of rest. Again we find the city be- 
decked with flags and bunting. Is it be- 
cause we are back in the Mormon metropo- 
lis? If so, we will be frank and state our 
sojourn is because we were about fifteen 



Yellowstone National Park 129 

minutes too late to make comiections with 
an outgoing train. No, we are informed 
the decorations are not in "our" honor, but 
in honor of the G. A. R. Very well; we 
don't want any fuss made over us. We 
are not used to that sort of thing. 

A MORMON SERVICE 

At 3 o'clock P.M. there was a special 
service for tourists at the Mormon Taber- 
nacle. We attended and first we were fa- 
vored with an organ recital, which was 
indeed very fine, demonstrating the won- 
drous powers and capacities of that great 
instrument. Then an elder of the Latter- 
day Saints gave a very brief synopsis of 
the Mormon faith. He submitted no 
thoughts or dogmas for special contro- 
versy. He steered his bark clear of the 
snag of polygamy. He claimed the right 
to worship as one's conscience dictated, 
and with true Methodistic fervor we said 
*'Amen" to that. The speaker used his 
words very skillfully, made no vigorous 
effort to "convert" us, and we listened re- 
spectfully, and at the close of the service 
felt none the worse because of the "talk"; 
in fact, we appreciated the effort to en- 
lighten us. 

The train is again in motion, whirling us 
through beautiful Salt Lake Valley. 
During the night we traverse a section of 



130 Wonders of The Golden West 

the Wasatch Mountains, the ascent at 
certain points necessitating three engines 
to pull us through. In the moonlight the 
mountain peaks appear strangely weird, 
while silence reigns o'er the vast domain. 



SCENIC COLORADO — PIKE'S 

PEAK— GARDEN OF 

THE GODS 



CHAPTER VIII 

Scenic Colorado — Pike's Peak — Gar- 
den OF THE Gods 

Monday^ August 2. — The train is now 
bearing us over the grand State of Colo- 
rado; majestic mountains in the back- 
ground, while fertile valleys expand be- 
fore us, forming a panorama of perfect 
beauty and tranquillity. 

GLENWOOD SPRINGS 

At the Hotel Colorado, Glenwood 
Springs, a day of rest is fully appreciated, 
especially by the ladies of the party fol- 
lowing the five days' coaching in Yellow- 
stone Park. 

This is one of the best known pleasure 
resorts in the West. It is noted for its 
sulphur springs. If the sulphur water 
does not kill — beg pardon — cure the ills 
of the flesh, the hot sulphur baths will 
finish the job. Seriously speaking, it is 
asserted that the sulphur baths here are 
great curative agencies in many cases. 

Here Roaring Fork River empties into 

133 



134 Wonders of The Golden West 

the Grand, while Mount Sopris stands 
forth in its peculiar grandeur. This is the 
spot par excellence to renew one's youth. 
Drink from the springs, indulge in sul- 
phur baths, take the "rest" cure and lo! 
one is a new creature. 

Another one of our members has de- 
parted this Western life for — 

Brother Jackson's left our party-— 

Never more out West to roam. 
Dead? Oh, no! For his laugh is blithe 
and hearty 
[Ajs he speeds t'ward his New Jersey 
home! 

Our beloved fellow traveler through the 
wilderness was just a little homesick. He 
longed to see the partner of his joys and 
sorrows — even scenic Colorado could not 
hold him. Was there ever such filial de- 
votion as this! 

As one departeth so two others cometh, 
as Miss Evelyn M. Paries and Miss Har- 
riet D. Lindsley rejoined our noble band 
at Glenwood Springs. They are blithe- 
some as larks. In fact, they declare most 
emphatically that the entire trip is a lark. 

GRAND RIVER CANYON 

Tuesday, August 1. — Just out of Glen- 
wood Springs an open observation car is 




A ROCKY MOUNTAIN LAKE. —Page 135. 



Scemc Colorado 135 

added to the train, which fact is highly ap- 
preciated, as we now enter the wondrous 
canyon of the Grand River. This canyon 
is sixteen miles long. The Rockies seem- 
ingly hem us in, as they tower 2,500 feet 
high, while the Grand River, lashed to 
fury because of its limited confines, makes 
the scene highly enchanting and we enjoy 
it to the utmost. 

In a short space of time we enter the 
celebrated canyon of the Eagle River, also 
impressive with the grandeur of Nature. 
Here is witnessed the curious sight of 
mines being worked on well-nigh perpen- 
dicular mountainsides 2,000 feet high on 
either hand. 

MOUNT or THE HOLY CEOSS 

From the train we catch a view of the 
wondrous Mount of the Holy Cross. The 
cross is formed by two transverse canyons 
of immense depth, riven down and across 
the mountain. In these canyons lie eter- 
nal snow. Whether from lack of snow or 
from a defective point of view, the "cross" 
did not appear to good advantage to us. 
However, we were willing to concede the 
"mount's" full height of 14,176 feet. 

CONTINENTAL DIVIDE OF THE CONTINENT 

At the crest of Tennessee Pass we have 
attained an altitude of 10,240 feet. The 



136 Wonders of The Golden West 

snow fields seem almost in touch with us, 
and we are "de-lighted!" No South 
Africa for our crowd ! Already we are in 
love with scenic Colorado. 

It is here the Pacific slope is changed 
for the Atlantic, this being the top of the 
Continental Divide of the continent. 

The scene now changes as we enter the 
Valley of the Arkansas, amid hay and cat- 
tle ranches. Peace and contentment go 
hand in hand. As we further traverse the 
valley we presently observe Mounts Har- 
vard, Princeton and Yale of the Collegiate 
Range and a little later a glimpse is had 
of glorious Pike's Peak in the distance. 

GRAND CANYON OF THE ARKANSAS 

We had been surprised and awed into 
mute silence many times during this 
grandest trip on earth; our adjectives had 
completely "played out" long since, but 
we were to witness another "thriller" as 
we entered the confines of the Grand Can- 
yon of the Arkansas, which is ten miles 
long. The narrowest part of the passage 
is the Royal Gorge, scarce space between 
mountain wall and river for the single 
track. At one point (the Hanging Bridge) 
the width is but ten yards and the road- 
bed has been built out* over the river. The 
mountain walls tower aloft 2,627 feet and 
the river boils madly through its tortuous 



^Scenic Colorado 137 

course. Amid this scenic splendor the 
spectator is completely lost in admiration, 
mingled with awe. Emerging from the 
Grand Canyon the train skirts the State 
Penitentiary. Making a brief stop at 
Pueblo, the second city of the State, we in 
due time arrive at Colorado Springs and 
from thence proceed to our hotel, the Cliff 
House, Manitou. Our eyes had beheld 
such a surfeit of wondrous sights amid the 
majestic Rockies of scenic Colorado that 
we were glad to rest them for a while. 
How sweet and beneficent to mortals is 
the precious boon of Nature — balmy sleep 
and rest! 

MANITOU 

Wednesday, August 4. — This is a little 
Eden, where health, comfort and delight- 
ful surroundings blend in perfect har- 
mony. If one has any love for the beauti- 
ful in the realm of Nature in one's make- 
up it must surely "break out" in this 
lovely spot, and if it doesn't — better go 
straight home and chop wood or dig clams, 
with no aspersions on those occupations. 

Here numerous mineral springs abound, 
a spring for each and every ailment, real 
or imaginary. It is the Saratoga of the 
West at the entrance to the Garden of the 
Gods and the starting point for Pike's 
Peak. 



138 Wonders of The Golden West 

SIDE TRIP TO CRIPPLE CREEK 

In the early morn we start from Mani- 
tou by trolley to Colorado Springs ; from 
thence we shall take the side trip of forty 
miles by steam to the celebrated mining 
camps of Cripple Creek. 

As we pass through Colorado Springs 
we admire the broad streets and magnifi- 
cent residences of the city, reputed an 
ideal home city of great private wealth. 
The city claims a population of 30,000. 

We are on the train and have "special 
reserved seats." "All aboard" — we're off! 
They tell us this is the trip that to describe 
bankrupts the English language, but me- 
thinks we went into bankruptcy in that 
respect back yonder amid the glories of 
the Canadian Rockies and capped the cli- 
max upon re-entering the domains of our 
Uncle Samuel. 

Our guide and megaphone man calls 
out the points of interest as we proceed 
upward: "Colorado City on the right." 
We next cross the trestle over Bear Creek 
Canyon. The train is now ascending rug- 
ged passes. Towns begin to look very in- 
significant in size from our elevated point 
of view. Hurrah! Ascend, old train, 
higher and still higher, as we have wit- 
nessed such a wealth of scenic grandeur 
that it seems scarcely any scene on this 
mundane sphere could daze us nowl 



'Scenic Colorado 139 

"Point Sublime," our guide announces. 
The point is well taken as we gaze down 
into the yawning abyss at our feet. We 
are now 7,200 feet above sea level. 

"North Cheyenne Canyon," another 
magnificent panorama is outstretched be- 
fore us. Then the announcement, "Silver 
Cascades on the right," and we gaze with 
enraptured vision at the beautiful water- 
falls, sparkling and shimmering with va- 
ried hues in the morning sunlight. 

"St. Peter's Dome." A huge mass of 
granite looms up before us, towering o'er 
the heights sublime — about 10,000 feet 
high. 

"Devil's Slide on the right." The an- 
nouncement was somewhat startling, in- 
asmuch as we had hitherto conceived the 
region of His Satanic Majesty being at a 
much lower altitude than this. 

At Goldfields we boarded an electric 
car en route to Cripple Creek, and soon 
we are in close proximity to famous gold 
and silver mines, some being in active op- 
eration while others are abandoned. 

Here is observed the American Eagle 
Mine, said to be the highest mine in the 
world, at an altitude of 11,000 feet. The 
Portland Mine, we were informed, is the 
longest mine in the United States. 

Mountains in New Mexico, 100 miles 
distant, can be discerned. That is, our 



1 10 Wonders of The Golden West 

guide tells us that they are that distance, 
so we take his word for it. 

On the sides of neighboring mountains 
we observe small cave-like openings, in- 
dicating the track of prospectors in their 
search for hidden wealth. Gold King 
Mountain is pointed out, showing the spot 
where gold was first discovered in 1891, 
there being but one log cabin in Cripple 
Creek at that time. 

We get a glimpse of Altman, which our 
guide informs us has the distinction of 
being "the highest incorporated town in 
the world." 

In the distance, fifty miles away, can be 
seen the snow-capped peaks of the Sangre 
de Cristo range of mountains. 

CRIPPLE CREEK 

In the valley at our feet lies Cripple 
Creek, now boasting a population of 15,- 
000. A little later we find ourselves in 
the famous mining city. Many have 
reached here with great expectations — 
and gone ''broke." We promenade the 
principal streets of the city, noting that 
the dwellings and business houses are built 
of substantial brick, averaging two and 
three stories in height. Numerous stores 
are "to let." 

At one of the leading hotels we were 
served with luncheon fit for a potentate 



Scenic Colorado l^l 

or the President of the United States, and 
I so expressed it to the wife of the pro- 
prietor, and her beaming smile lit up the 
room. 

Ere taking our departure from the city 
the members of our party who had any 
money left at this stage of the trip entered 
jewelry stores to look at the "pretty 
things" — and the jewelers did the rest. 
Upon returning we noted numerous mines 
at Victor in active operation, also some 
abandoned mines. 

But ah ! if these mines could speak, what 
tales would be regaled of man's insatiable 
thirst for gold. And these abandoned 
mines, what could be told of unrealized 
hopes, of unrequited toil, of the widows' 
and orphans' savings ruthlessly sacrificed 
therein! The Cripple Creek gold and sil- 
ver mining region is likened unto a great 
checkerboard in the great drama of life. 

The side trip to Cripple Creek was in- 
deed an interesting one, aside from its 
scenic features. Enjoying the high alti- 
tude of 10,000 feet, we hope to go still 
higher on the morrow, as we anticipate as- 
cending Pike's Peak. 

pike's peak by rail 

Thursday, August 5. — One may walk 
or ride a "broncho" up the precipitous 
mountain paths, but we choose making 



142 Wonders of The Golden West 

the ascent by the Cogwheel Route. The 
sun shines brightly as the car, with the 
engine in the rear, begins the climb of 
14,147 feet. Some handshaking is done 
and irrelevant remarks indulged in, such 
as "We'll meet you above," etc., and then 
we await developments. Some very de- 
vout mortal (or mortals) have utilized the 
big rocks for religious purposes, as upon 
one is: "All the v/icked and all nations 
shall be turned into hell that forsake God," 
and a little further an individual, evi- 
dently with a vein of humor, has inscribed: 
"Let the wicked forsake this way." 

We are slowly yet surely ascending, as 
is attested by the passing objects on either 
side as the conductor announces them 
from time to time. 

Various rocks are given suggestive 
names, such as "Lone Fisherman," 
I^Hanging Rock," "Plum Pudding," 
"Turtle Rock," etc., because they very 
much resemble in form the objects thus 
designated. 

There are six stations or stopping points 
on the line and three water tanks, for the 
engine is a hard drinker. 

As we proceed upward our conductor 
announces "Son-of-a-Gun Hill." We 
thought this somewhat irreverent, but 
after we viewed the "hill" the name 
seemed very fitting and appropriate and 
no change in the name was even suggested. 



Scenic Colorado 143 

Our first stop was at Minnehaha; quite 
romantic station this. A little further on 
and another stop is made at the Half-way 
House, a rustic mountain hotel, and tow- 
ering above it are the rocks of *'Hell 
Gate," through whose portals our car 
passes. 

A view is had of Mount Burley, 12,000 
feet high, in the distance. We can now 
sweep the horizon for 100 miles. The at- 
mosphere is rapidly changing. The con- 
ductor states that the ascent is at an angle 
of 25 per cent., adding that the power 
house on the right is the highest in the 
world. 

Every one is now entering with great 
zest into the sensations of the trip. Ex- 
pressions are heard, "Wouldn't missed 
this for the world!" "Are you cold, Doro- 
thy?" "Cheer up — the worst is yet to 
come!" 

At the next stop an opportunity is given 
passengers to purchase or hire extra 
wraps, but this is not the north pole — only 
"tenderfeet" put on extra clothing. 

The United States Government seal 
stamped close to the track indicates that 
we have attained an altitude of 11,000 feet. 

Picturesque Lake Marie, far below, re- 
sembles a small pond. At 11,500 feet we 
pass beyond the vegetation line into the 
bare rock region and the point of view 
becomes still grander. Looking to the 



144 Wonders of The Golden West 

south we can discern the sharp outlines 
of the Spanish peaks in New Mexico, 
said to be 140 miles distant! 

At "Windy Point" we have attained an 
elevation of 12,000 feet. Passengers seri- 
iously don more wraps. Feels like a frosty 
morning in November on Long Island, 
but the date is August 5. 

A pretty flower girl now appears on the 
car with Pike's Peak forget-me-nots for 
sale, grown above the timber line. The 
engine takes another drink and wheezes 
ahead. 

Still another rock inscription reads: 
"Where will you spend eternity?" "Crip- 
ple Creek," says our conductor, and, sure 
enough, in the distance we discern Cripple 
Creek and its surrounding mines, also the 
mountains marking the Continental Di- 
vide, and then at last we have reached the 
glorious summit of Pike's Peak. 

THE SUMMIT 

We are now at an altitude of 14,147 
feet, but there are no unpleasant physical 
sensations, such as shortness of breath, or 
fainting on the part of the gentler sex. 
The matchless environment alone dazes 
and awes the spectator, for here is sublim- 
ity enthroned. One feels like the hero in 
"Monte Cristo" who in triumph declares, 
"The world is mine 1" The panorama out- 



'Scenic Colorado 145 

stretches and unfolds before one's enrap- 
tured vision in all its grandeur and its im- 
mensity seems incredible. The view from 
this exalted point simply baffles descrip- 
tion. 

We are above the cloud line, but in forty 
minutes we shall return to the lowlands of 
earth. Amid ledges of rock we hunted 
high and low for traces of snow without 
avail, when to our satisfaction the Hon. 
Wm. F. Cody's nephew kindly proffered 
a handful he had descried, and with a por- 
tion of this heaven-born article the writer 
washed the fair cheeks of a young lady 
hailing from New Jersey. She struggled 
not and sweetly murmured, "It's awfully 
nice!" 

We purchased a copy of the paper pub- 
lished on the summit and, presto! our 
names were recorded "on high" among the 
"latest arrivals." On the summit we note 
the tablet dedicated to the memory of 

"Zebulon Montgomery Pike, 
Soldier, Explorer," etc. 

At the summit no postal cards can be 
mailed therefrom unless the same be pur- 
chased at that point ; the price charged per 
postal, including stamp, is 10 cents. This, 
to my way of thinking, is a piece of impo- 
sition. It is un-American and should be 
stopped. 



146 Wonders of The Golden West 

After having our photos taken on the 
summit to certify to our friends at home 
that we actually did the "peak," reluc- 
tantly we began the descent, happy in the 
thought that one of the aspirations of 
school days had been gratified. 

GABDEN OF THE GODS 

The descent was made in due time, and 
after partaking of luncheon at our hotel 
we soon found ourselves in carriages at 
the entrance to the Garden of the Gods. 
The redstone formations seen here are cer- 
tainly unique. 

The driver calls our attention to two 
portions of stone being similar in propor- 
tion, called "The Siamese Twins," and we 
notice the resemblance. Then our lecturer 
introduces us to "The Washerwoman," 
and, sure enough, the outline of the afore- 
said woman is observed bending over the 
washtub. In rapid succession we note 
Punch and Judy, the Balanced Rock, the 
Steamboat, the Cemetery, the Lion's 
Head, the Kissing Camels and other for- 
mations too numerous to mention. The 
peculiar beauty and striking resemblance 
to the object named in each instance 
elicited our heartiest approval and deep- 
est appreciation. The ladies' "ah's" and 
"Isn't that just too cute for anything!" 
demonstrated that imagination is a great 



^Scenic Colorado 147 

thing, for, of course, in viewing these for- 
mations or freaks, one must have an imagi- 
native turn of mind in order to see the 
beauties thereof. However, the driver 
usually attends to this, and he readily 
makes up any deficiency existing on the 
part of the spectator. 

CAVE OF THE WINDS 

We continue our drive through Will- 
iams Canyon. The drive proved a veri- 
table "Rocky Road to Dublin," along nar- 
row ledges of rock, then winding up high 
mountain cliffs, and as one gazes into the 
depths a creepy feeling steals up and down 
the spinal column. However, one is tol- 
erably safe if the driver is strictly sober 
and horses shy not. Just at this point one 
of the occupants of our carriage an- 
nounced in measured tones, "Look! three 
beautiful deer at the right." We looked 
and what do you t-hink we beheld? Why, 
three "dear" mountain lassies! The joker 
was a married man, too. 

Finally we arrived at the Cave of the 
Winds, where we each deposited a dollar 
as an act of good faith and a guide with 
a defective articulation took us through 
a subterranean passage lighted by elec- 
tricity, and the aforesaid lecturer-guide 
proceeded to unwind his stock of knowl- 
edge about the queer and curious forma- 



148 Wonders of The Golden West 

tions here exhibited. The formations, 
termed stalactites, grow downward from 
the ceihng and are very beautiful, while 
the stalagmites grow upward from the 
floor of earth and rock. Some of these 
formations are undoubtedly fine, but do 
not compare in size and beauty with those 
of the Luray Caverns in Virginia. 

It is with reluctance we take our leave 
of beautiful Manitou. At twilight, from 
the train, we catch a fleeting view of the 
light on the summit of Pike's Peak, seem- 
ingly bidding us adieu as we turn toward 
the East. 

We rather like Colorado, its climate 
being all that mortals can desire ; its lands 
are rich in vegetation; its valleys are fer- 
tile and surpassingly beautiful to behold, 
while its mountains teem with precious sil- 
ver and gold. Methinks any individual 
doing well in that State should remain 
there, as it is one of the scenic spots and 
health resorts of Mother Earth. 

The "dry farming" section of the State 
was traversed in the darkness. Dry farm- 
ing is the process of retaining the natural 
moisture of the soil sufficiently to mature 
the crop when rain falls only at long in- 
tervals and irrigation is not feasible. 

We have touched or crossed the States 
where women have full suffrage — Idaho, 
Wyoming, Utah and Colorado — and it 
seems, in passing, that these common- 



Scenic Colorado 149 

wealths are not going to the bow-wows in 
consequence of its female citizens utilizing 
their rights. 

The woman suffrage pot is boiling over 
in England, and if we read aright the 
signs of the times, it would seem the pot 
is beginning to simmer on this side of the 
Atlantic and by and by the women will 
be victorious and the right to go to the 
polls and vote in all the States will be 
theirs. By what right, human or Divine, 
do the so-called "lords of creation" deny 
woman the privilege of full suffrage? 



HOMEWARD BOUND— PASSING 
COMMENTS 



CHAPTER IX 

Homeward Bound — Passing Comments 



Friday^ August 6. — The dawn of day- 
brings us into new scenes. The moun- 
tains, the yawning canyons, the pictur- 
esque cascades and the beautiful valleys 
are no longer in evidence, as our train is 
forging across the fertile soil of Kansas. 
Vast fields of corn, seemingly as far as the 
eye can reach, outstretch before us, and 
the stubble of extensive fields of wheat at- 
test the harvest of the latter has been gar- 
nered. A young lady who was jotting 
down notes of our trip was asked what she 
would say about Kansas and she replied: 
"I shall simply remark that 'Kansas 
stands for corn!' " Kansas is a glorious 
State nevertheless. 

At Phillipsburg we adjust our time- 
pieces one hour forward, changing from 
Mountain to Central time. We shall re- 
peat the performance at Buffalo, chang- 
ing from Central to Eastern time; in all 
probability our final change until the lure 
of the mountains again brings us west- 
ward. 

163 



154 Wonders of The Golden West 

PLEASANTRIES OF TRAVEL 

While we are traversing the "corn belt" 
kindly permit me to digress for the time 
being to remark that there is a world of 
enjoyment in travel if one simply adjusts 
oneself to circumstances. It is just as 
well to find out first as last it doesn't pay 
to be too exacting; one must not expect 
all the comforts of home even on a Pull- 
man car. Moreover, if matters do not al- 
ways revolve in heavenly cycles pour in a 
little oil of forbearance, superior to Omega 
Oil in allaying irritation. Above all, 
"keep sweet." We tacked that motto on 
the curtains of our car. 

Some individuals are born travelers, 
others are not. Some gaze with rapture 
on scenic grandeur, while others will be ap- 
parently unmoved, reminding us of those 
recorded in Holy Writ: "Having eyes, 
they see not; having ears, they hear not." 

If one is seeking information while on 
the trip it is well to keep one's wit on the 
alert, with pencil sharpened, and ask ques- 
tions. Keep on the right side of the train- 
men, as they are pretty well posted on the 
routes traversed. It pays to be courteous 
to every one — helps one over the "bumps." 

ONE ON "jOE," OUR PORTER 

Before entering the Sacramento Valley 
our train was traversing a high plateau, 



Homeward Bound 155 

and looking across the valley and down 
into the canyon, I espied a railroad track. 
I said to our affable porter: "Joe, this 
train is evidently on the down grade, and 
I think it is heading for that track way 
down yonder. Am I right?" Joe 
scanned the rails way down in the canyon 
and answered: "I think you are wrong, 
sir. That track is on another road." 
"Thank you, Joe." Our train proceeded 
down the valley, actually forming a loop 
in one instance, and after a long interval, 
just as I had surmised, we were finally 
traversing the track down in the canyon, 
to Joe's utter amazement, who said "Well, 
I couldn't see how in the Lord's world it 
was possible for the train to get away 
down here!" But the real joke on Joe 
was that he had previously traveled over 
this identical route; in fact, he had actu- 
ally "forgotten" this wondrous spot. Per- 
haps I, too, shall forget this "spot," but 
methinks it will not be until the lights of 
earth flicker and go out. 

LOYAL TO THE EAST 

I have hitherto alluded to the loyalty of 
the people of the Far West to their re- 
spective States, and it seems fitting at this 
point to record particularly the loyalty of 
the unmarried ladies of our party to their 
Eastern homes. To illustrate : Way back 



156 Wonders of The Golden West 

in the Far Northwest, I think it was in 
Oregon, a resident of that State (a wid- 
ower) having a fine ranch and his house- 
hold was blessed with two lovely little tots 
— alas! now motherless. This Oregonian 
desired a wife for his bosom and at the 
same time a mother to his little "kiddies," 
and the announcement was made on the 
"Chesterton." Would the offer or "pro- 
posal" be accepted by any unmarried fe- 
male member of our party? But we were 
not long kept in suspense. One young, 
blithesome creature said, "No; could not 
leave her happy home in the East." An- 
other replied she would not forsake her 
"dear mamma"; another tkat "Oregon 
was too far from Jersey." A maiden from 
the Empire State said her heart was "loyal 
to New York." Still another objected on 
the ground that "there were two tots too 
many." All the returns were in save from 
our fair neighbor in the section opposite 
the writer of these lines. Laying aside her 
magazine, she sweetly said, "Really, I 
could not leave my little Wellsville, Ohio !" 
Was there ever such devotion to kindred, 
to the home or to the respective Central 
and Eastern States as this? 



"tipping' 



One of the bugbears of travel is the giv- 
ing of "tips." The moment the tourist 



Homeward Bound 15^ 

gets fairly started on the trip he (or she) 
is expected to hand over tips until safely- 
home again. Whether the tourist hap- 
pens to be in the bondholding class or can 
scarcely afford to take the trip matters 
not. But simply dare to ignore the "un- 
written law" of tip-giving and the "knight 
of the apron" will look at you, but oh! 
what a look you'll get! Why should this 
un-American system prevail? Why not 
tip all clerks, salesmen and salesladies in 
the stores ? 

On railway trains why tip only the 
waiters, cooks and porters? Why not tip 
the conductor for looking and taking up 
our tickets, the engineer who takes us 
safely through, and perhaps the road we 
are privileged to ride upon is not pay- 
ing good dividends, so why not tip the 
stockholders? But here is the biggest 
"Why" of all. Why do not the railroad 
companies pay sufficient wages to all 
their employees on trains crossing the 
continent and thereby make tipping un- 
necessary? I understand that the porters 
could scarcely get along with the wages 
paid them by the railroad, but this ought 
not to be so. 

While indulging in these passing com- 
ments our train is still dashing through 
Kansas and finally makes a stop at To- 
peka, the capital, thence on to Kansas 
City, where we alight. 



158 Wonders of The Golden West 

KA.NSAS CITY 

At this interesting point we have a few 
hours in which to get a glimpse of the 
town, and a large sightseeing automobile 
is soon whisking us through the streets of 
the city. We soon note that Kansas City 
is a wide awake, flourishing metropolis. 
The stores and business houses have a 
prosperous appearance. 

Traversing the fashionable residential 
section we saw many palatial homes vying 
in elegance with any we had seen hitherto 
in our tour of the West. We had but one 
grievance against the city, viz. : The ther- 
mometer was down or rather "up" on us, 
and we were unanimous in the conclusion 
that for a red-hot, sizzling town Kansas 
City was certainty it. 

ST. LOUIS 

Saturday, August 7. — About 7 a.m. the 
train brought us into the great metropolis 
of the Southwest — St. Louis. After 
breakfast we again board a sightseeing au- 
tomobile, taking in the sights of the city. 
We were greatly pleased with St. Louis, 
as it is both beautiful and great. Its For- 
est Park is next to that of Fairmount 
Park in Philadelphia in size, and we 
greatly admire its beauties and artistic 
features as we are whirled over its hand- 
some drivewavs. It was also somewhat 




THE AUTHOR.— Page 159. 



Homeward Bound 159 

cooler than we found it in Kansas City. 
We shall not again leave our train until 
reaching the East. 

THE HOMESTRETCH 

All aboard for the homestretch! The 
train crosses the noble Mississippi River 
into the good old State of Illinois, the 
home State of America's greatest human 
product, Abraham Lincoln, and soon we 
are whizzing by towns and vast fields of 
luxuriant vegetation. 

A TOURIST^S "impressions" 

When one has taken a trip of this na- 
ture many inquiries are naturally made, 
such as What particular State or city did 
vou like the "best of all"? What are the 
opportunities for the average worker out 
West? Can a person do better out West 
than in the East? These, of course, are 
difficult questions and to answer them in- 
telligently would require a perfect knowl- 
edge and familiarity with the conditions 
and resources of the localities specified. A 
tourist can truthfully state one's impres- 
sions only. To the young man seeking a 
commercial career my impression is that 
Seattle, Wash., offers a splendid field. It 
is a busy centre, is not overcrowded like 
our Eastern cities and has an air of gen- 
eral prosperity. San Francisco is another 
rising city. For a residential city I would 



160 Wonders of The Golden West 

commend Portland, the Rose City. The 
spot that appealed to me was that won- 
drous section in the beautiful Williamette 
Valley in Oregon. It seemed to me that 
the environment there was all that mortal 
could desire, but after noting scenic Colo- 
rado and breathing the invigorating air 
of that great State I was in the position 
of the maiden who had two suitors for her 
hand — she was undecided which to accept, 
loving each equally well. 

Southern Cahfornia is the winter resort 
for the people of the East. When the ice 
king waves his sceptre o'er the frozen East 
then flee to Del Monte, Santa Barbara or 
Riverside, if your purse-strings happily 
permit, for this is the perpetual land of 
flowers and warm sunshine, verily the 
gateway between earth and heaven. 

The trip from the Atlantic to the Pacific 
Coast is nearly finished. We have touched 
or crossed twenty-one States and covered 
nearly 11,000 miles. Over in Canada we 
crossed the Provinces of Saskatchewan 
and Alberta, also a goodly portion of 
British Columbia, and again I repeat that, 
in my humble estimation, the Stars and 
Stripes should float over the entire Cana- 
dian and British possessions in North 
America ! 

We feel that the trip has been of great 
benefit to us; it has enlarged our concep- 
tions of this grand country of ours. The 



Homeward Bound 1^ 1 

scenic wonders our eyes beheld amazed 
and awed us. No mortal can view the 
stupendous Canadian Rockies, towering 
in colossal magnitude toward heaven, and 
God's wonderland, which we term Yel- 
lowstone Park, without realizing that 
there is an Unseen Power all about us, be- 
speaking the Divine Hand, the Great 
Architect, Builder and Scenic Artist ot 
the Universe! 

The great and mighty West charmed 
us as we beheld its beauty, its productive- 
ness and its great resources. Its climate 
is all that mortal can desire. 

We shall miss the snow-capped moun- 
tains, the grand canyons, the dashing cata- 
racts, the majestic waterfalls leaping 
gracefully over the precipices, the boiling 
springs and spouting geysers — these 
sights cannot be witnessed m the l^ast. 
However, we have the Atlantic Ocean, 
noble rivers and splendid bays, and, above 
all, this fact, that this great country in its 
entirety is ours, and that the splendid ta- 
cilities of travel soon take one to any 
point under the sun. 

The train is now traversing picturesque 
Indiana, the State that produced that ster- 
ling statesman, Benjamin Harrison. A 
short stop is made at Indianapohs, but 
the itinerary did not permit any sightsee- 
ing at this interesting metropolis. 

After touching the Pacific Coast one 



162 Wonders of The Golden West 

doesn't feel very far westward in Indiana, 
seems kind of neighborly like; coming 
closer to Smith's Corner, Lawrence, the 
most desirable spot on Long Island. 

NEARING HOME 

Sunday, August 8.— During the night 
our train has traversed the State of Ohio, 
noted for its Presidential timber and the 
home State of our two martyred Presi- 
dents, James A. Garfield and William 
McKinley. All honor to the State that 
produces men of that stamp, including our 
present Executive, William H. Taft. 

We touch a corner of Pennsylvania and 
later catch a glimpse of the blue waters of 
Lake Erie in the distance, thence on to 
Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse, Utica, mak- 
ing a stop at Albany and soon we are 
skirting the familiar Hudson River. 

THANKSGIVING 

We are about to bid adieu to the mem- 
bers of our party whose warm friendship 
contributed largely in making the trip so 
enjoyable, and it is fitting that we give ex- 
pression to our thankfulness that we have 
traveled across the continent and returned 
without accident, our train arriving at Se- 
attle on schedule time, a tribute to the 
splendid railway system of our great land. 

Furthermore, we feel under obligations 
to Rev. J. J. Foust, our genial conductor 



Homeward Bound 163 

of the tour, for his earnest efforts to make 
the trip as pleasant as possible. We also 
desire to speak a word of commendation 
of the Gillespie- Kinports Company, mi- 
der whose direction this tour was taken. 

Above all, we feel grateful to our Heav- 
enly Father for the privilege of beholding 
the vast area of this glorious Republic — 
glad that we are citizens thereof and per- 
mitted to live and enjoy its blessings and 
freedom — this land now more wondrous to 
us than ever before. In the sweet by and 
by we hope to tour another Land that is 
even more glorious than this. 

In order to preserve this fair country of 
ours how essential it is that only America's 
best type of men should be permitted to 
enact and execute its laws. 

Gentle reader, our trip is ended, but its 
sweet memories will abide down to life's 
eventide. We trust that the foregoing 
chapters will inspire those who have not 
yet taken the glorious trip to the Pacific 
Coast to do so, for indeed no description is 
adequate to do it justice. 

"My native country, thee, 
Land of the noble free, 

Thy name I love ; 
I love thy rocks and rills. 
Thy woods and templed hills : 
My heart with rapture thrills 

Like that above." 

THE END 



PERSONNEL "TOUR E" 

Conductors: Rev. Appleton Bash, Rev. J. J. 
Foust 

Miss Fannie Abbott Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Miss Gertrude Altaffer Pittsburg, Pa. 

Rev. J. E. Apply Pittsburg, Pa. 

Mr. B. Atkinson Paterson, N. J. 

Mrs. B. Atkinson Paterson, N. J. 

Miss Helen Atkinson Paterson, N. J. 

Master Benjamin Atkinson. . . .Paterson, N. J. 
Mr. James V. Austin. . . .Astoria, L. I., N. Y. 

Mrs. Sarah Austin Astoria, L. I., N. Y. 

Miss Anna Zelma Baker .... Hummelstown, Pa. 

Rev. C. H. Baldwin 

Rev. Appleton Bash . Sewickley, Pa. 

Mrs. J. J. Bogardus Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Miss E. R. Bragaw Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Mrs. A. Louise Brewster Rochester, N. Y. 

Miss Anna Brewster Rochester, N. Y. 

Mr. Chas. M. Chamberlin Maspeth, L. I. 

Mrs. Chas. M. Chamberlin Maspeth, L. I. 

Miss A. L. Coe Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Mrs. J. E. Crisman Windber, Pa. 

Mrs. A. F. Eckert Orange, N. J. 

The Misses Eckert Orange, N. J. 

Mrs. C. A. Ferris Washington, D. C. 

Mrs. Mary E. Fifield Paterson, N. J. 

Miss Florence Fifield Paterson, N. J. 

164 



Personnel ''Tour E'' 165 

Mr. G. P. Foulk. Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Mrs. G. P. Foulk .Brooklyn, N. Y. 

IRev. John J. Foust Astoria, N. Y. 

Mr. A. L. Freeman . . ^ Maspeth, L. I. 

Mrs. A. L. Freeman. Maspeth, L. I. 

Mr. Frank E. Freeman. .,..._.. .Maspeth, L. I. 

Miss Emily R. French. ...... Beaver, Pa. 

Mr. G. Haflinger Maspeth, L. I. 

Mrs. G. Haflinger .Maspeth, L. I. 

Rev. E. P. Harper ... . . .^ . Jeannette, Pa. 

Miss Minnie J. Harper. . . . .Imperial, Pa. 

Miss Hartman. Washington, D. C. 

Mr. and Mrs. E. L. Henderson. . .Carrolton, O. 

Miss E. M. Hood Pittsburg, Pa. 

Miss Emma M. Hood Pittsburg, Pa. 

Miss Margaret C. Houston Paterson, N. J. 

Miss E- E. Hunt. Washington, D. C. 

Mr. J. Livingston Hunter. . . . . .Tidioute, Pa. 

Mrs. L. L. Hunter. Tidioute, Pa. 

Miss Lilla May Hunter. . . . .Tidioute, Pa. 

Miss Dorothy Hunter. ...r. . .Tidioute, Pa. 

Miss Minnie L. Hursh. Harrisburg, Pa. 

Miss L. M. Hursh. ..;.,.. Harrisburg, Pa. 

Mr. Joe Jackson ,. Sewickley, Pa. 

Rev. S. T. Jackson Sewickley, Pa. 

Mrs. M. L. Jepson .Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Mr. Geo. C. Johnson. .. Allegheny, Pa. 

Rev. J. M. King .St. Clair sville, 0. 

Mrs. C. M. Knight. Akron, O. 

Miss Emma Kroas Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Miss Lizzie Lawrence. . . .Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Miss Josie Lawrence. ...... .Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Mrs. Susan R. Leach , .Astoria, L, L 

Miss Harriet D. Lindsley Jersey City, N. J. 

Miss Mary A. McCombs Pittsburg, Pa. 

Miss Martha J. McCombs . .Pittsburg, Pa. 



16G Wonders of The Golden West 

Mr. C. C. McFarland New York City 

Mrs. C. C. McFarland. . New York City 

Miss Mary Marshall. ...... .Jersey Shore, Pa. 

Rev. J. M. Mason East McKeesport, Pa. 

Mrs. B. Moore .Astoria, L. I., N. Y. 

Miss Margaret Moore. ........ .Astoria, L. I. 

Mr. Alex. Moore Astoria, L. I. 

Mr. John Oliver Myers. ...... .Carnegie, Pa. 

Miss Nellie E. Myers. ...... .Johnstown, Pa. 

Miss N. E. Myers Johnstown, Pa. 

Mrs. Elizabeth N. Oliver. ...... .Carnegie, Pa. 

Miss Evelyn M. Paries. .... .Jersey City, N. J. 

Mr. W. N. Ridge New York City 

Mrs. W. N. Ridge New York City 

Miss Mary M. Robinson..Rockville Centre, N. Y. 

Miss Minnie R. Root Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Miss Sylvia Mae Rosenteel. . . . .Sewickley, Pa. 

Mr. A. H. Scudder Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Mrs. E. H. Scudder Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Miss Sarah F. Small. Bayonne, N. J. 

Miss H. H. Stevenson Wellsville, O. 

Miss Kathryn Taylor ........ Newton, N. J. 

Miss Lucy Todd Brownsville, Pa. 

Mr. J. R. Van Dine Lawrence, L. I. 

Mrs. J. R. Van Dine ..Lawrence, L. I. 

Miss F. Van Wagnen Yale, Mich. 

Mr. F. L. Warner. .New York City 

Mrs. F. L. Warner. New York City 

Mrs. F. L. Wanzer East Cleveland, O. 

Miss Margaret Winslow. . . .East Orange, N. J. 
Rev. M. W. Womer East Orange, N. J. 



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